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I recently switched my MIM Strat from 9-42s in standard to 10-46's in Eb and the damned thing will NOT stay in tune!

I know how to setup my own axes very well... i already checked the intonation and set the string action up right. The truss rod was adjusted to compensate for the heavier guage. I have Sperzel locking tuners and the trem is flat against the body so it doesn't move. I dust the nut with powdered graphite to lube the slots.

The guitar staryed in tune perfectly with 9's... why not now?

I'm thinking it could be one of two things...

1. I usually have ONE wrap of string around the sperzel, even though i know I could get away with no wrap at all... it this throwing off the tuner?

2. The nut slots aren't big enough for the strings and need to be recut.

Can anyone help me?

I'd say try both!

I could be that break...you never know .

My guess is that the strings are binding at the nut, especially if the nut was cut specifically for 9-42 strings. Having a tech widen the slots for the new string gauge is a simple and inexpensive job.

Ryan


Originally Posted by DeadSkinSlayer3I'd say try both!

I could be that break...you never know .

The quot;accidentquot; happened on October 1st... I t was repaired and restrung the following week and I only changed string gauges/tuning a week ago.

If you pulled off all of the strings at once and threw on the others pulling it straight into tune then you're experiencing neck shock.
Loosen the strings about a tone,let sit for about 1/2 hr then bring them back to pitch going up in 1/2 tones tuning the strings in this order E-G-A-B-D-E.
Failing that draw a piece of 220 grit paper through the nut and check the saddle for burrs,(re4member to follow the break angle).
Also take a look at the springs,if they look like they are bowing to the body then the trem tension is off,(even though it's bolted down it can still shift unless it's fully blocked.Just pressing and releasing the strings adds and removes tension).

I doubt this is making a huge difference, but Sperzels are designed to have no wraps on the post. Might help, might not.


Originally Posted by JohnJohnIf you pulled off all of the strings at once and threw on the others pulling it straight into tune then you're experiencing neck shock.

Loosen the strings about a tone,let sit for about 1/2 hr then bring them back to pitch going up in 1/2 tones tuning the strings in this order E-G-A-B-D-E.
Failing that draw a piece of 220 grit paper through the nut and check the saddle for burrs,(re4member to follow the break angle).
Also take a look at the springs,if they look like they are bowing to the body then the trem tension is off,(even though it's bolted down it can still shift unless it's fully blocked.Just pressing and releasing the strings adds and removes tension).

I usually DO remove/replace strings one at a time but occasionally I will remove them all to clean the fretboard and I've never had problems with that before... but I'll try the neck shock cure and a few of the other tricks you suggested.


Originally Posted by JB_From_HellI doubt this is making a huge difference, but Sperzels are designed to have no wraps on the post. Might help, might not.

As I said, I usually do put one wrap on there quot;just becausequot; and the tuning's never had problems before.

It's simple. The nut slots need to be widened. Use Johnjohn's cure by folding a piece of 220 grit sandpaper. Fold it thicker by putting a piece of guitar string in it for the lower strings. Run it through all the slots enough to make sure none of the strings ping when you tighten or loosen the tuning pegs. Anytime you hear that 'ping' when you're turning the tuning pegs, it means the string is sticking in the slot. Eliminate that, and you're fine. The graphite powder, teflon powder, or vaseline will make it even slicker, eliminating the bindage.

And after you're done, re-check the intonation, making sure all the notes high up on the fretboard read dead center on a good tuner. If you do all of those things, your guitar will stay in tune.

I've checked some other things but now I'm 100% sure its the nut slots that need widening. I'm gonna go ahead and use the sandpaper trick you guys recommeded. I have one final question, however. In widening the slots, will I create any problems for myself if I decided I eventually want to go back to 9-gauge strings? I don't think it will but I just want to be sure.

Hey B2D, do the regular Sperzel locking tuners match up right out of the box with your MIM Strat? I'd like to get some locking tuners for mine.

Thanks


Originally Posted by B2DI've checked some other things but now I'm 100% sure its the nut slots that need widening. I'm gonna go ahead and use the sandpaper trick you guys recommeded. I have one final question, however. In widening the slots, will I create any problems for myself if I decided I eventually want to go back to 9-gauge strings? I don't think it will but I just want to be sure.

If you're moving to a heavier string gauge, have a tech widen the slot with the proper nut files. The sandpaper trick should be reserved for situations in which the nut is cut for the correct gauges, but the strings are binding.

Ryan


Originally Posted by JB_From_HellI doubt this is making a huge difference, but Sperzels are designed to have no wraps on the post. Might help, might not.

Word!! Wraping the strings around the post defeats the purpose of having a locking tuner.

If you widen the slots to accomodate 10's or 11's, then return back down to a lighter gauge, there won't be any problem. It may be an issue if the slots are widened for 12's and you go back to 9's, but only because it's dramatically different.

9 times outta 10, tuning problems are caused by strings binding in the nut, the nut not being cut low enough, or intonation that's not spot on.


Originally Posted by SoCalSteveHey B2D, do the regular Sperzel locking tuners match up right out of the box with your MIM Strat? I'd like to get some locking tuners for mine.

Thanks

No, they didn't. I had to use a drill press to rout out slightly bigger holes for them. I understand quot;miniquot; locking machines will drop right in (as far as the main post is concerned, diff mounting holes may be needed) but I haven't looked into those.


Originally Posted by rspst14If you're moving to a heavier string gauge, have a tech widen the slot with the proper nut files. The sandpaper trick should be reserved for situations in which the nut is cut for the correct gauges, but the strings are binding.

Ryan

I was thinking this as well (haven't sat down the the sandpaper trick). The local shop doesn't charge a whole lot to do it.