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I admit it... I HATE soldering with a passion. It truly sucks ass. I'd rather go to the dentist and have a root canal than have to mess with this crap. Last night I was going to install a new volume pot in a one humbucker, one volume knob guitar. How hard could that be right? Well, let's just say it still isn't done

I am using a low power Weller wand... this is a 59b so all I have is 2 wires... the metal shield and the inside wire... I can't get that shield to stay soldered to the top of the pot. Maybe I am using the wrong solder or something. Running the guitar over with my car may be the better option right now.

are you holding it in place in the solder until it cools? i kept doin that tryin to stick it in and was like wtf why wont it stay then i realized that the solders gotta solidify around the wire. i actually really like tampering with the electronics, and ive gained quite an affinity for soldering.

Yea, I need an extra hand... I have the solder gun in one hand, the wire in the other... no hand to actually hold the solder and stuff..... sucks...

wow im totally opposite, i love soldering - when ive got the soldering iron out i look for more stuff to solder even if it isnt necessary

scuff up the back of the pot with some sandpaper and then retry

Hey bro...soldering takes time and patience till you really get up to speed and learn little short cuts and gain skill along the way. I made a mess of a lot of electronic's cavities till I got the hang of it. I think doing the pot lugs is a snap but the back of pots can be tricky as you said.

One thing I learned was that it seems easier with a higher wattage iron. I use a 40 watt iron and you could even us 45. The thing is you are in and out faster this way. I had nothing but problems with a 25 and 30 watt iron.

Make sure the iron has had time to heat about 10 minutes.
One thing you can do is hold the iron on the pot for a few seconds and then touch the solder to the iron tip and pot at the same time...the solder should flow right on, then put down the solder and grab the wire fast and place it in the hot solder - quickly remove the iron and it should set up. This doesn't always work for me because you need to be fast and accurate. I also will usually hold the iron to the pot as above, add the solder, let it flow right on the pot. Then take away the iron and solder so you don't fry the pot. Pick up the wire as quickly as possiblke and re-heat the solder, quickly placing the wire in the solder and removing the iron. You should still get a good joint if done as quickly as possible with a clean iron tip.

-use the widest tip you have for the back of the pot
-let iron (40-45 watts) heat up. when solder flows onto it, its ready to go.
-tin (tinning is applying a thin layer of solder to every surface to be soldered) tip before using it for the first time and keep it wet throughout process. dry tip wont work
-scuff up back of pot
-put flux on pot
-tin back of pot
-put flux on wire
-tin wire
-put flux on pot and wire again
-put solder on tip until a tear drop forms (doing it this way prevents the need for a 3rd hand!)
-put wire on pot
-put tip on wire and pot
-solder will flow onto both
-remove tip but hold wire on pot for a sec or two
-unplug soldering iron
-your done

*NEVER use a soldering gun, only a soldering iron. If in the process of tinning the back of the pot you leave too much solder behind, remove the excess with copper solder braid.

A big pair of forceps work well. I got what looks like a huge pair of tweezers at a an electronics store that work great. I actually use an 80 watt iron, heats up fast, but I feel less time on the parts does less damage. Take your time, use heat sinks, and have fun with it.

i like solder fumes

sand off the back of the pot, apply some solder to it's base.

and i hope you got soldering paste.
apply a tiny bit to the shielding, heat, add some solder.

if you dont have it, heat some solder above it, so the fluid inside drips on the shielding (i really DO hope you got some solder that has some paste in the middle, if not, go buy some. how can you even solder with that cr@p wire in the 1st place) .. then add some solder.

when you got solder on both the shielding AND the back of the pot, put them together with some tongs or whatever, press the iron to it and voila, they merge in an instant.
always add some solder on at least one part of what you're about to solder together. merges quicker, and you never have a cold joint


Originally Posted by RGNI can't get that shield to stay soldered to the top of the pot.

Lots of good advice about soldering above. If you still have trouble with that shield, get enough of it so you can solder it to the volume pot's ground lug (left as you face the bottom of the pot).


Originally Posted by chillLots of good advice about soldering above. If you still have trouble with that shield, get enough of it so you can solder it to the volume pot's ground lug (left as you face the bottom of the pot).If you do this be sure to still solder the grounding lug to the back/side of the pot. It's probably already bent back and soldered if its the original pot that's still in there. Also be sure the shield doesn't come in contact with the other two lugs.

i love soldering too~ not hard at all...im sure its been mentioned before im kinda lazy to read all this stuff..use rosin cored solder~ IMO it works the best =)


Originally Posted by Colmai love soldering too~ not hard at all...im sure its been mentioned before im kinda lazy to read all this stuff..use rosin cored solder~ IMO it works the best =)

When I first tried soldering I had no idea what to do and didnt know about tinning or basically anything about the whole process. After a few kind suggestions from people on this and other forums, I got better. Just soak up as much info as you can and practice on anything u can get ur hands on.

Thanks for the help... I have two soldering devices:
- a 25W iron
- a 140/100W gun

I am using the 25W iron... is that OK for pickups? I have no problems whatsoever soldering wires together. It is when the pots come into play the problems start. Do you guys install the pots into the guitar before or after you wire everything up?

EDIT: I guess neither the 25W iron or the gun are ideal so which one should I use? I replace pickups a couple times a year so I am probably not buying another iron.

after man.. after.

that's why you should always leave full wire on the pickups. so you can solder them outside of the axe and then put them in.

but remember to cover the axe up with a towel!!


Originally Posted by Fritz6-use the widest tip you have for the back of the pot
-let iron (40-45 watts) heat up. when solder flows onto it, its ready to go.
-tin (tinning is applying a thin layer of solder to every surface to be soldered) tip before using it for the first time and keep it wet throughout process. dry tip wont work
-scuff up back of pot
-put flux on pot
-tin back of pot
-put flux on wire
-tin wire
-put flux on pot and wire again
-put solder on tip until a tear drop forms (doing it this way prevents the need for a 3rd hand!)
-put wire on pot
-put tip on wire and pot
-solder will flow onto both
-remove tip but hold wire on pot for a sec or two
-unplug soldering iron
-your done

*NEVER use a soldering gun, only a soldering iron. If in the process of tinning the back of the pot you leave too much solder behind, remove the excess with copper solder braid.

INteresting, so you want to keep it wet the entire time? That may be part of the problems I see. I usually wipe off excess solder while soldering and wipe with a damp sponge to remove all solder before the next task. I run into problems with this.....I have a tip tinner/cleaner can that helps. I dip it a bit before hitting the pot or lug now.

Also, thanks for the tear drop tip.


Originally Posted by RGNThanks for the help... I have two soldering devices:
- a 25W iron
- a 140/100W gun

I am using the 25W iron... is that OK for pickups? I have no problems whatsoever soldering wires together. It is when the pots come into play the problems start. Do you guys install the pots into the guitar before or after you wire everything up?

EDIT: I guess neither the 25W iron or the gun are ideal so which one should I use? I replace pickups a couple times a year so I am probably not buying another iron.

That could be a problem. The gun is way too much, and will probably fry the pots internally. The 25 watt is probably too small. Like others have said, 40-45 is about ideal. If its any consolation, soldering a braid to the back of a pot is probably the single most difficult soldering task within a guitar.

I'm with you RGN, I absolutely hate doing this sort of thing. I am the world's WORST solderer, the guts of my axes look like a dog doodied in them. Then when you consider you've gotta go back now and reset your Floyd, man that really keeps you from experimenting with pups very often. It's an all-day affair.


Originally Posted by RGNThanks for the help... I have two soldering devices:
- a 25W iron
- a 140/100W gun

I am using the 25W iron... is that OK for pickups? I have no problems whatsoever soldering wires together. It is when the pots come into play the problems start. Do you guys install the pots into the guitar before or after you wire everything up?

EDIT: I guess neither the 25W iron or the gun are ideal so which one should I use? I replace pickups a couple times a year so I am probably not buying another iron.NEVER use a gun on or around your guitar. I think I heard it from Robert S. that it can demagnetize the pups or something to that effect. Whatever it does, its bad! Just grab a 40 watter for around 10 bucks.

Radio Shack has something called a terminal or jumper strip. They work great. Solder one to the back of the pot then solder all the grounds to it.

Its thinner so it heats up WAY faster than the pot so its easier to pop wires on and off quick and there's plenty of room for all the wires. Great for ther frequent tinkerer!

Also, in a strat, put one in the bottom of the bridge pup cavity and solder the bridge and jack grounds to it. Then run a wire from it to the pot. This eliminates one ground wire from the pot and'll ground the shielding if the axe has any.

Make sure the hot and ground wires going to the pickguard are long enough so you can take it off and flip it over to work on without having to desolder. Same goes for the output jack.


Originally Posted by papersoulINteresting, so you want to keep it wet the entire time? That may be part of the problems I see. I usually wipe off excess solder while soldering and wipe with a damp sponge to remove all solder before the next task. I run into problems with this.....I have a tip tinner/cleaner can that helps. I dip it a bit before hitting the pot or lug now.

Also, thanks for the tear drop tip.Yeah I throw a little solder on the tip every few minutes that its on. Seems to make the tip heat up the parts faster. Also, do all your prep work BEFORE turning on the soldering iron.

Its way to easy to forget its on when you get wrapped up in something else!