software

Well I posted quite a few (yeah ok, a crapload) of topics about my model 1a to try to figure out what happened. The tech had a look and he found out in 1 minute:

The truss rod is loose inside. Not that it's been loosened too much, but the whole thing 'floats'. When you tap the back of the neck, it makes this hollow sound of the rod hitting the wood inside. Also, the nut wasn't well filed but I had spotted this. W00t.
Good news: I did make her play better, though still pretty unplayable. I had spotted the nut problem and I also had well seen that the frets didn't seem to be problematic
Bad news: 200 euros wasted.
On the JCF I'm on a model series neck that'll go on her and another Charvette neck that I'll then use for practise.
Which leaves me with a soon to be neck-ed model series body (good body. Resonant as hell)
And a spare neck to destroy
How do you take off a fingerboard? The way I'd do it:
1) take the frets, nuts, everything out
2) run a razor blade around the edges of it to eliminate laquer or glue holding it together
3) heat the end of it (latest frets) with an ironing thingy (for clothes)
4) slide a razor blade under and very softly lift it up, going deeper in
5) move the iron on very slowly, sliding the blade further and further, seperating the neck from the fingerboard.

But of course that's theory. Is this the correct way?
Thanks guys

Oh and I met HT (PAC112) today! Nice guy! We didn't get to talk too long but it was cool hangint out with him

You can actually do it without taking the frets off. Use a hot iron with a lot of steam, a razorblade, and a metal putty knife to work it loose. It takes a lot of heat and steam to get that glue loose though, so be patient.

If you're just trying to fix the truss rod, you can actually use a magnet to figure out where the end is and then just cut out a piece of the fretboard rather than taking out the whole thing.

I don't see what you mean...?
Why would I cut a piece of the fingerboard, wouldn't that definitely waste it?
I'll see if I can find a putty knife (or figure out what these are, for that matter )


Originally Posted by Pierre.....How do you take off a fingerboard? The way I'd do it:
1) take the frets, nuts, everything out
2) run a razor blade around the edges of it to eliminate laquer or glue holding it together
3) heat the end of it (latest frets) with an ironing thingy (for clothes)
4) slide a razor blade under and very softly lift it up, going deeper in
5) move the iron on very slowly, sliding the blade further and further, seperating the neck from the fingerboard.

But of course that's theory. Is this the correct way?
Thanks guys

If you want to salvage inlays such as MOP Blocks, remove them... otherwise omit step 1, waste of time.. it´s all going to be scrap metal or firewood when you remove it anyway, you won´t be able to save them... and what for? A new slotted, radiused fretboard and frets cost about 25-30 € shipping, though you probably know this already

BTW: keep patient, it will take FOREVER. some things just can´t be speeded up.. take a break if necessary (remember to turn off the iron if you do)

Otherwise, you´re essentially on the right track... the razor blade will be too small to give you good leverage, Putty-knives (like large metal spatulas) work much better for the actual lifting, many luthiers actually grind a near-blade on one end to aid in the separation....

Another way is buying a LONG putty knife and holding the iron directly onto the blade, heating the blade directly, allowing for faster separation of the joint.... but it doesn´t make that much of a difference, and I personally always cringe at the thought of holding hot metal directly onto wood that will still be used (the neck itself)....


That's my 'razor blade' and putty knife. The sizes seem right I guess.
No idea why I wanted to take it all off I think it's because on budman's tutorial of his wife doing it, they had taken everything off the neck... Ah well...

I don't know if you can see that well on here but the fingerboard end isn't 'sharp'. There appears to be glue accumulated there or something. How to get rid of it? Would the steam of the iron make it melt and allow me to get rid of it?
I'm expecting to spend at least 3 hours on it, but I don't expect to get it all done by then. I'm thinking more than 4 or 5.
Good idea about getting a new fretboard. If anyone sells one with the correct dimensions (Charvel model series) then I'll sure try this. Thanks Zerb!


Originally Posted by Pierre
That's my 'razor blade' and putty knife. The sizes seem right I guess.
No idea why I wanted to take it all off I think it's because on budman's tutorial of his wife doing it, they had taken everything off the neck... Ah well...Should work fine, you still may want to consider a larger putty-knife, though, wide enough to fit under the full width of the fretboard

I don't know if you can see that well on here but the fingerboard end isn't 'sharp'. There appears to be glue accumulated there or something. How to get rid of it? Would the steam of the iron make it melt and allow me to get rid of it?
Absolutely normal, glue squeeze out from the fretboard installation covered by a bit of lacquer... cut/sand/ file it away if you want, but I´d leave it until the board is removed, it won´t cause issues..

I'm expecting to spend at least 3 hours on it, but I don't expect to get it all done by then. I'm thinking more than 4 or 5.
Good idea about getting a new fretboard. If anyone sells one with the correct dimensions (Charvel model series) then I'll sure try this. Thanks Zerb!

Tiem is about right.. nobody sells precut fretboards afaik... you can get pre slotted and pre radiused, but the fitting (quot;Profilingquot;) to the neck itself you have to do yourself.... another plug for here

Well that's just experienced gain and money saved Muahahaha... Looks like I'll have fun!
I just stripped the neck of all hardware and separated the laquer's fretboard from the neck's.
Well what I'm worried about with the glue is that it'll prevent me from sliding the cutter between the neck and the fingerboard. I guess it won't then?

If you where to just cut out a section of the fretboard (like a small 1.5 square inch piece), you'd just glue it back when you where done. Some people prefer to do it that way; personally I'm like you and would rather take the whole thing off.

The tech i had repair my Les Paul Deluxe had to use an iron to heat up teh fingerboard and remove it.. The Neck was twisted bad and the fingerboard had been sanded too thin to do another refret...... So he had a special iron that sits on the fingerboard and heated it up well!!!.... I think he made the iron from some sort of electric home space heater.. Anyways the inlays and the binding melted pretty good.... he had to make inlays and bind the board by hand since Gibson at the time didn't sell inlays or fingerboards for repair work. Once the neck was repaired and glued back together they refinnished the neck and around the joint. I only wish i had the neck profile shaved down a bit as it is extremely thick.... great for tone but hard on my wrists. Took the guy months to get my lp back to me but it's much better and in 13 years i have never had a single problem with the repaired neck....

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