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I have a warmoth body (SG shape, mahogany body) I’m looking to finish soon, and I had a question regarding executing the paint scheme I want to go with. I’d like to start with a base of Gibson Heritage Cherry and lay some Gibson Gold Top flames over the cherry. I’d also like to separate the two with a white pinstripe.

My question pertains to getting a nice level finish when it’s all said and done. Over the cherry I think I’d need either several coats of Gold Top Gold or fewer layers of gold with a white primer underneath. Either way, the flamed section of the guitar is going to have a higher build up of paint that I fear will show through when I clear coat the instrument.

Additionally, would you guys pinstripe before or after clear coat? I’ve seen it done both ways, but have no idea which is correct (I have also not determined whether or not I will pinstripe with a brush or tape a stripe off).

I'm far from an expert on this, but I'm painting my brother's Frankenstrat right now. I taped off the stripes, because I know I can't paint a straight line to save my life.

I had to spray 24 coats of clear to level out the lines. The paint had built up along the edges of the tape and made quite a difference in height. In hindsight, I probably could have sanded quite a bit off and not needed to use so many coats of clear.

I don't know if that helps any, but maybe you'll get something out of it.

Use tape for pin striping unless you are an experienced painter and you KNOW you can do it. Ive taken two top notch drawing/painting classes here at Tech and i can draw one free hand, but it just wont compare with one that was taped off. As far as the first part of your post, you need to be more detailed in what you are talking about.

If I understand what you what to do correctly? You don't need to use pinstripe tape. Get some 3M 1/8'' blue tape # 471 (I think?) After you spray
your white base coat. Give it a few days or a week or so to cure. Than use
the 3M tape on the inside of your flame pattern, Spray your gold and let cure.
When you take the tape off you should have a nice white stripe.

I guess I wasn’t as clear as I thought I was. I’ll try again.

Basic painting question. I’m laying down a heritage cherry over the entire body of the guitar. Then I’m going to spray Gold Top Gold flames over the cherry. Gold Tops, as I understand them, are thick applications. Therefore, the areas of the flame will have a much higher paint build up than the cherry. I see this being an issue when it comes to applying the clear coat and getting the final finish surface to be perfectly level.

I think JacksonMIA might be getting to the answer I was hoping not to hear, and that’s to allow the clear coat to level out the finish. That’s a ton of nitro build up. I’m concerned that much nitro could be very soft for a very long time.

You are doing grain filler, right? All of the work will be in vain if you don't do that first. Check out the forum at (there's not a direct URL link to the forum, but there's a hyperlink on that page), there are some hardcore finishers over there who can probably give you some good advice. Good luck!

1) Grain fill the entire body. I think you'll get the best results with nitro based grain filler, but water based works too. If you go water based, do multiple coats.

2) Sanding Sealer. Again, I get the best results with nitro sanding sealer. Stewmac sells good stuff in a spray can. Do 3 coats (at least 5 hours in between), wait 24 hours, and sand lightly with 600 gritt. Do two more coats and sand with 600 or 800.

3) Spray the herritage cherry. If you're using a dye, you'll need to reduce it with either denatured alcohol (my preference) or lacquer thinner. Water based dyes can not be sprayed over sealed wood. If it is a tinted lacquer, just spray until you have the desired hue.

4) once that's all dry (I'd give it a good 5-7 days since you're taping), tape off the flames. Spray a coat or two of primer, sand very lightly, and spray gold. It shouldn't take more than four coats, possibly less. Take off the tape.

5) Tape off the pinstripe and spray. If you use good white paint, it shouldn't take too many coats. Do one or two more after it's completely opaque. If you want to minimize the number of coats, spray the pinstripe over the gold rather than over the cherry.

6) Let everything dry for sever days, then sand very lightly with 800 or so gritt.At this point, I'm going to make recomendations based on what should happen, not personal experience...

-You may want to spray a couple thin coats of the same sanding sealer you used before. it builds up much faster than lacquer. 2 or three coats should do it, wait 24 hours and sand to 600 or 800 gritt (600 gets a better result but is prone to sand throughs).

-After that, spray the lacquer. If it's nitro, about 8 coats should be plenty since you're spraying over the other paint. If you want, you can go all the way up to 15 for a nice thick finish. Spray with the body hanging. Let it dry at least four hours between coats, no more than two coats per day. Let it cure two weeks minimum before buffing.

Sounds like a nice finish. Pinstriping with a brush (sword) takes years of practice...I've been doing it a few and I'm still crappy...LOL. The inside curves of a tight flame is usually done one side at a time and takes a lot of skill. The method KMC said is how I did Wattages Tele. Did the silver base first, tape the flame graphics, shoot the outside red, leaving the 1/8quot; blue fineline tape on, tape/mask outside the flames, shoot the orange and pull the tape to reveal the silver 'pinstripe' outline with the orange center.

The other Tele (mine) I used 1/8quot; white pinstripe tape for a 'faux' binding edge. Both were clearcoated with a few coats of automotive poly...IMO, the only way to bury paint edges. You mentioned lacquer, it will take a LOT of thin coats of lacquer and a lot of time to even come close to bury any graphic...gotta sand every few coats with lacquer.
If you decide to go with lacquer, go light on your gold coats. Prep the body and apply the cherry...good luck, stains/dyes are tricky...does RR sell a spray? After dry you can mist a light clear coat...optional. Lay your flame graphics using the 3m 1/8quot; blue fineline tape. Here's where you do more work than me. After your flame layout is perfect, outline precisely the flame pattern you just made, with an outline outside of your graphics, using the 3m tape. Done? now pull off the inside tape. All this inside space will be painted white (if you want a white outline)...make sure you mask outside the blue 1/8quot; tape before you spray, use clean paper and 3M blue painters tape. Once the white is very dry, now retape inside with the 1/8quot; touching the inside edge as this will now be your 'pinstripe'. Shoot the gold, let it dry an hour and pull the tape to reveal a nice clean white pinstripe around the gold flames. Keep your white and gold as THIN as possible. I use metalflakes so I like to knock down any loose flake and heavy edge by rubbing with a 3m Scotchbrite 0000 white pad. I do recommend poly for graphics as it builds quick and offers most protection for the art. I don't worry about the supposed tone difference between poly and nitro, it's a custom axe, just play with the knobs. Good luck.

Awsome. Thanks guys. Butnut, I've always been a huge fan of your work (Wattage's Tele is sweet). I'm going to try to basically follow the same steps you did (slightly different, of course). Can you tell me what the prefered automotive poly is? I will definatly play around on some scrap wood before going to town on the body, too.

MikeRocker - yes, I'm prepping the body as per instructed by the FAQs at ReRanch. I also posted the same question on their boards just to maximize the amount of good advice I'd get.

One more question... I've known for awhile that I'll need 1/8quot; tape.... only trouble is I have no idea where to find it. My only guess would be an automotive paint supply shop.

Thanks again guys. I'll be sure to try to keep everyone updated on progress, but I can tell you now that it looks like it'll take a good length of time to do it right.

Here's a link for the 3M tape from : localhost/www.autobodydepot.net/

Thanks Mike. Yeah, I usually buy my tapes from the paint supplier. Use only 3M fineline and you won't have any issues. On your first tape outline, you have to finish the tips, use a sharp Xacto knife to cut the tape into the pointed ends. Then you can do the next step and outline those.
I've used all kinds of poly clears, but the latest is the Dupont ChromaCure HC7600S poly. I got great results (better flow and leveling) with their HC7607S activator/catalyst. I used their faster activator before and it did'nt flow as nice...ie: more sanding needed. Be careful not to load up too much as it will run.
Take your time, the only time I kinda rush is when I have tape on...leaving on too long and you don't get a clean cut line and risk residue gum...with the 3M not likely, but can happen, never use cheap tape. Good luck.
I'm sure you know you'll need spray gear AND the best respirator you can afford. Poly is very toxic...especially while mixing too. If you smell any fumes while painting, adjust your mask, choke those straps...you'll have a toilet ring around yer face, but the lungs will thank you. Have fun.