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I'm loading up some Webers into my new 2x12 cab and I have two questions.

1) The speakers came in the box with out labels, the circular sticker labels came in a separate envelope... I was about to put them on but i noticed there's a small hole right in the center of the speakers surrounded by a different-colored metal ring (the magnet?). When I apply these stickers, is it OK to cover up and seal off the hole or should I poke a hole in the sticker and leave the hole open to air.

I dunno what purpose, if any, that hole serves but if closing it off is gonna mess up the speaker operation I'd like to know.

2) These are 16ohm speakers and I'm wiring it up parallel for an 8ohm load. This website tells me to wire the speakers up for parallel like this picture:

...while in my boogie manual they show a different parallel wiring scheme. (see it in the attached scan)

Which one is right?

I'd like a quick answer as tonight I've finished my HW early and have some time to do that AND get rid of that loose connection in my MIA strat. Thanx for your help.

This is from webers site. It's layed out pretty simple in his diagram.
I don't imagine a problem with the sticker? But if your un sure? Email
Weber.
Both of those diagrams will give you the same results, just think about. Either way, both 's go to the tip, both -'s go to the ring.

Ok well I wired it up the way weber said and it's fine now. I'll post reviews once I get the chance to crank it up. Thanks!

3rd question... in soldering the speakers I did the wires like this: I took wone wire off the pos and one off the neg terminal of the jack and then soldered 2 separate wires to the single one... is it safe to cover the connection points with electrical tape? I know theres a lot of power running through that wire and I don't wanna melt or fry anything.


Originally Posted by B2D3rd question... in soldering the speakers I did the wires like this: I took wone wire off the pos and one off the neg terminal of the jack and then soldered 2 separate wires to the single one... is it safe to cover the connection points with electrical tape? I know theres a lot of power running through that wire and I don't wanna melt or fry anything.

First, no, the hole shouldn't bother anything, I've seen some Fenders done either way, I think it's more of a part of the manufacturing process, either that or a small heat port ... if it makes you feel better ask weber first ...
Second, yeah, both diagrams are the same wiring, parallel is when one connection has two points in common ....hook positives to positives and negatives to negatives.
Third, Not sure what you mean here ... I'd run from the jack to the first speaker, and then jumper wires from it's positive terminal(s) to the positive terminal and the second speaker; then do the same thing for the negative wire, i.e. first speaker neg.,jumper to secong speaker neg. ... As far as electrical tape, really you shouldn't have but a small amount of the speaker cable at the solder lugs ( YOU ARE USING *SPEAKER CABLE* RIGHT? ... Unshielded 16ga. to 12ga., the larger you can get away with the better.), so I don't see why that's necessary at all. I'd strip the wire back to where it needed to be at the connection, tin it, and solder it.


Originally Posted by Kent S.Third, Not sure what you mean here ... I'd run from the jack to the first speaker, and then jumper wires from it's positive terminal(s) to the positive terminal and the second speaker; then do the same thing for the negative wire, i.e. first speaker neg.,jumper to secong speaker neg. ... As far as electrical tape, really you shouldn't have but a small amount of the speaker cable at the solder lugs ( YOU ARE USING *SPEAKER CABLE* RIGHT? ... Unshielded 16ga. to 12ga., the larger you can get away with the better.), so I don't see why that's necessary at all. I'd strip the wire back to where it needed to be at the connection, tin it, and solder it.

Well Looks like have some rewiring to do then. It's a TAD sloppy at this point and I'm using 18 guage silver wire.

To Radio Shack we go!

I also think this time I'll use the method in the boogie manual that requires less solder joints (i prefer to use crimp-on clips with speakers) and thus less exposed wire...


Originally Posted by B2DWell Looks like have some rewiring to do then. It's a TAD sloppy at this point and I'm using 18 guage silver wire.

To Radio Shack we go!

Radio Shack does sell a half descent speaker wire BTW, just ask for the heaviest guage they have in the shortest length (remember they are thinking home stereo use or outdoor paging systems), and some silver solder wouldn't hurt either (silver solder, not silver bearing paste) that's optional.


Originally Posted by Kent S.Radio Shack does sell a half descent speaker wire BTW, just ask for the heaviest guage they have in the shortest length (remember they are thinking home stereo use or outdoor paging systems), and some silver solder wouldn't hurt either (silver solder, not silver bearing paste) that's optional.

I'm just using plain 60/40 rosin core solder right now. There's an ACE hardware right across the street too so I'll see what they have to play with as well.


Originally Posted by B2DI'm just using plain 60/40 rosin core solder right now. There's an ACE hardware right across the street too so I'll see what they have to play with as well.

60/40 will work just fine, the reason for silver solder is that it resists oxidation better, and it creates a physically stronger bond (read mechanical), also resists heat better (also has a higher melting point, so lower wattage 15W~20W irons might have a tough time with it, a 40W will be fine). It's optional, it does work better in high current apps. (speakers, amps, etc.).
Don't sweat it, I just figure it like this, you buy good speakers, to put in a good cab ... so go the extra mile to get all you can out of it ...


Originally Posted by kmcguitarsSo, wireing speakers parallel or in series will produce the same results sonically?


Originally Posted by NapsSo, wireing speakers parallel or in series will produce the same results sonically?

Yes and no, there will always be subtle differences between say one speaker versus two speakers ... However that's not what we are talking about here.
And placing a load on the amp other than what it wants to see will alter the tone slightly (especially with tube amps, and you run the risk of burning it up if you don't do it right ... a lot of that depends on the exact amp you are running ...generally you can get away with mismatching by one order ... if an amp wants to see 8 ohms, you can run a 16 ohm cab with solid state amps, many can go much higher, and a 4 ohm cab with tube; sometimes you can go the other way with tube amps and run 16ohms {sometimes!} but in general not higher or lower than one order of mismatch... better yet ... run the thing at what it wants), but it's not a Tone decision, you wire the speakers the correct way to get the correct load the amp needs to see ...

If your amp is rated for 8 ohms ... then you can use :
One 8 ohm speaker or,
two 16 ohms speakers (or 16 ohm cabinets, say 4x12s) wired in parallel or,
two 4 ohm speakers (or 4 ohm cabinets, say 2x12s) wired in series.
Either way all the amp sees is 8 ohms, so it's happy.

There's a Marshall 2x12 sitting in the local used music store for around $240... I should just pick that thing up and wire it for 8 ohms instead of the stock 16!!


Originally Posted by Kent S.Don't sweat it, I just figure it like this, you buy good speakers, to put in a good cab ... so go the extra mile to get all you can out of it ...

Agreed... I'm a big proponent of that quot;weakest linkquot; type of thinking. Like if you're gonna use stuff like Gearjoneser has then why use crappy cables and not Planet Waves?

Plus you gotta remember that a bunch of small changes equals one BIG change in the end.