close
In a recent thread I started about when to replace frets, Lew mentioned levelling frets before replecing them. What is this and can I do it myself?
Thanks
If you want to invest the $$$$ in the right tools to do it properly and also learn how to do it. Leveling is a procedure where all of the frets are leveled to the same height above the fretboard and all of the frets are on an even plane.
I have a tool called a neck jig that holds the neck in the exact position as if the strings were on it and it is tuned to the desired pitch. If you want to level frets I really recomend on of these. When the neck or guitar is setup in the in the jig, You then use a fret leveler and level the frets to even heights across the radius. After that, the frets get recrowned and polished. Here are some of the tools I use,
from : localhost/are some of the tools I use to do this. You can get ones cheaper but, its still going to cost you some cash. If you are interested in doing this kind of work, I would buy a few stew mac videos and watch them. That will shred alot of light on things.
Sounds like a good investment, Theodie. I've been thinking about taking the plunge into this stuff, myself. The only thing that holds me off is the high prices of all those tools at Stewmac. Somebody needs to give them some competition because they sure nail you with those prices!
yeah at stewmac prices to buy all 3 tools i could have 6 necks fret leveled by my luthier (and thats if i only bought one block) and i know they won't be screwed up by me trying it out for the first time lol.
-Mike
I agree with, they need competion. I have spent alot of cash in the last 6 months.
It's still a worthy investment, to be a fully equipped guitar tech/luthier. Then, you aren't like me, using the wrong tools to try and get pro results. LOL
I am in need of a fret leveling and I'm taking the plunge myself. I too have spent many $$ at StewMac. I made some of the tools that Dan Erlewine uses but then I'm a woodworker by profression so it kind of comes naturally. I may be able to help out in this dept. as far as tools that can be easily made.
My question to you guys is this: Is three years the right amount of time to go by for needing fretwork? I purchased a new solid body with jumbo frets in Feb of 2002. I had 6 months of lessons and I play daily, sometimes for hours and hours switching between a Stat copy and the Schecter (Schecter needs leveling). The Strat only shows minor wear and it has med. jumbo frets. I don't get it! I do play blues and rock and my fingers love to bend. I've been trying to use a lighter touch but I just get into it and squeeze.
Fret levelling is only one half of the equation ... a full Fret Dress is the best way to go and my Dean is currently in the shop undergoing that operation.
Right after the Frets are levelled, the tops are not crowned which is not a surface you want to play on ... the Full Fret dress Levels, Re-Crowns and Polishes ...
I took the Dean in nearly 2 years ago for a fret dress and the luthier bungled the operation and I was thinking that it needed a full re-fret. Luckily I was able to find a repair person locally and see their Fret Dresses first hand and play guitar that had undergone a Fret Dress from the same guy. He was confident that he could get it playing again, and I'm hoping he's successful.
BUT ALWAYS ALWAYS ask to see a sample of the Repair Tech/Luthier's fret 'work' if possible. After my first experience I will not hand my guitars for fret issues until I get a first hand view of the quality of their work.
There is really no set time period, I've owned my main player for three years and it has zero fretwear. I highly recommend buying a cheap neck to practice on if you're interested in fret work. I learned to do my own, and while it's not brain surgery, you really do need to do a few practice runs before working on the real thing. Certain setups also have certain challenges. I've found that for refretting, unbound rosewood boards are by far the easiest to work with. Most maple boards require refinishing after a refret, and Ebony boards are more likely to chip when the frets are pulled, especially if it's on an older guitar that hasn't been oiled. Bound necks also require you to undercut the fret tang, a task that's best accomplished with a specialized tool. Here are the tools I own that I can recommend:
fretting hammer
handheld fret press (not necessary, but very helpful. Either way, you still need the hammer in most cases)
radius blocks that match the radius of your neck
crowning file
end beveling file
fret bender
end nippers
fret pullers
radius gauges
cyanoacrylate adhesive
various grits of sandpaper
I'm probably forgetting something, but that's what I use. I spent about $300 on all these tools, but that's not too unreasonable when you figure a refret costs $200 or more and a level costs anywhere from $75-$120. Eventually, these tools will pay for themselves if you learn to do your own fretwork.
Ryan
There's no need to buy all these tools from StewMac for a sigular fret-dress job.
Instead of the neck jig just loosen the truss rod so that the neck is perfectly streight. The radius sanding beam can easily self-built: from : localhost/I think that for fret dressing a radius sanding block should not be necessary.
And the the fret file is also not necessary. If you are careful you can do it with a normal file (with triangular profile).
The only tool I will soon buy from stewmac is the fret slotting saw. Although I already have a japanese saw with exactly the required thickness I want to have a saw which I use for nothing else than this task.
There is no set time for needing a fret job, I'm really heavy handed, use a lot of vibrato and pulls, so anything short of jumbos need a job in one/two years if I play them regularly. Some people only need them after 10 years or more (so they say, I prefer not to have dead spots all over the board) and some guys wait 'till they're down to the wood. (Stainless frets are said to last, but a bit of a bugger to work with - not the world's most malleable metal and prone to jamming (sic) and slipping ).
Originally Posted by psyThere's no need to buy all these tools from StewMac for a sigular fret-dress job.
Instead of the neck jig just loosen the truss rod so that the neck is perfectly streight. The radius sanding beam can easily self-built: from : localhost/I think that for fret dressing a radius sanding block should not be necessary.
And the the fret file is also not necessary. If you are careful you can do it with a normal file (with triangular profile).
The only tool I will soon buy from stewmac is the fret slotting saw. Although I already have a japanese saw with exactly the required thickness I want to have a saw which I use for nothing else than this task.
Ive pulled off a fret something or other myself, I wont call it a quot;dressquot; quot;levelquot; or even correct at this point, BUT my Gibson studio doesnt fret out or buzz any more, has no fret wear and plays great, oh and the frets are shiny and smooth.
I bought a straight flat 10 inch file, got the neck straight, lay the file on the fret board WITHOUT applying pressure, just let the file weight do the work, run it over the entire board (after taping the wood, please) trying to maintain consistency throughout. Keep that up until your wear is gone, this way your removing material evenly. If you push down on that file in one spot, your done, you just wacked the job. It takes time. After that I used a 10 inch sanding block with few grades of fine paper until all file marks were gone, same procedure.
Worked for me....No crown, I guess Im a hack!
Whats the difference and why would you not want to play on a non crowned fret. I think I need to know this.......Thanks
Originally Posted by XSSIVEyeah at stewmac prices to buy all 3 tools i could have 6 necks fret leveled by my luthier (and thats if i only bought one block) and i know they won't be screwed up by me trying it out for the first time lol.
-MikeMike brings up an excellent point. Having the tools is only half of it. You ave to know what to do with them to do it properly. I have done this and it is not an easy thing to do. After I did my first fret leveling. I had to cut a new nut and saddle also. The frets are now lower. All in all I still think it is worth the investment in having a COMPETENT luthier do this type of job. It is very unrewarding, you can spend 2 to 3 hours making shiny metal bars more level and more shiny.
quot;Worked for me....No crown, I guess Im a hack!
Whats the difference and why would you not want to play on a non crowned fret. I think I need to know this.......Thanks
I have read in Guitar Player Repair Guide that flat top frets are prone to buzz as there is more surface to buzz on. Also, you may note a little sharp or flat depending where your noting between frets. Can't testify to any of this though!
Originally Posted by fatboywhitneyI have read in Guitar Player Repair Guide that flat top frets are prone to buzz as there is more surface to buzz on. Also, you may note a little sharp or flat depending where your noting between frets. Can't testify to any of this though!
That sounds completely plausible....hmmm. Learn something new everyday!
Originally Posted by DocrockWorked for me....No crown, I guess Im a hack!
Whats the difference and why would you not want to play on a non crowned fret. I think I need to know this.......Thanks
Well, never tried that, but most probably the intonatoin will suck. If you press the sting onto a flat fret the distance between the fret and bridge decreases and the tone moves to sharp. And you can't compensate that with tuning because each fret has different width after fret levelling and also the nut does not move towards bridge.
Yeah, leaving the frets uncrowned will result in worse intonation, and possibly more buzz as mentioned above. You don't necessarily need all the tools I mentioned, but the fewer the tools, the greater your skill needs to be. A master luthier could get by with a hammer, flat level, three corner file, nippers, adhesive, and some sandpaper. I am not a master luthier, so I bought tools to make the work much easier, such as radius blocks, a handheld fret press, a fret bender, and a diamond crowning file. You don't need the neck jig, but it does help keep the neck as straight as possible. If you don't use one, you need to make sure the neck is well supported and that you don't use too much pressure when doing the leveling. Otherwise, the neck will bow slightly, throwing off the straightness you spent so much time trying to achieve. If you're going to do this yourself, don't cheap out on the tools. Screw up a fret job, you're out time. Badly screw up a fret job, you're out time and lots of money, as you'll need to have a good luthier replace your fretboard and possibly your binding.
Ryan
how much does it cost for a full refret/redress/recrown on a guitar neck at a good luthier?
Originally Posted by Quencho092how much does it cost for a full refret/redress/recrown on a guitar neck at a good luthier?
It depends heavily on the type of guitar. The average is about $200 for an unbound neck. The price goes higher if it's a maple fretboard that needs refinishing, or if it's a bound neck. If you want stainless steel frets, the price is significantly higher, usually $300-$400.
Ryan
Thanks
If you want to invest the $$$$ in the right tools to do it properly and also learn how to do it. Leveling is a procedure where all of the frets are leveled to the same height above the fretboard and all of the frets are on an even plane.
I have a tool called a neck jig that holds the neck in the exact position as if the strings were on it and it is tuned to the desired pitch. If you want to level frets I really recomend on of these. When the neck or guitar is setup in the in the jig, You then use a fret leveler and level the frets to even heights across the radius. After that, the frets get recrowned and polished. Here are some of the tools I use,
from : localhost/are some of the tools I use to do this. You can get ones cheaper but, its still going to cost you some cash. If you are interested in doing this kind of work, I would buy a few stew mac videos and watch them. That will shred alot of light on things.
Sounds like a good investment, Theodie. I've been thinking about taking the plunge into this stuff, myself. The only thing that holds me off is the high prices of all those tools at Stewmac. Somebody needs to give them some competition because they sure nail you with those prices!
yeah at stewmac prices to buy all 3 tools i could have 6 necks fret leveled by my luthier (and thats if i only bought one block) and i know they won't be screwed up by me trying it out for the first time lol.
-Mike
I agree with, they need competion. I have spent alot of cash in the last 6 months.
It's still a worthy investment, to be a fully equipped guitar tech/luthier. Then, you aren't like me, using the wrong tools to try and get pro results. LOL
I am in need of a fret leveling and I'm taking the plunge myself. I too have spent many $$ at StewMac. I made some of the tools that Dan Erlewine uses but then I'm a woodworker by profression so it kind of comes naturally. I may be able to help out in this dept. as far as tools that can be easily made.
My question to you guys is this: Is three years the right amount of time to go by for needing fretwork? I purchased a new solid body with jumbo frets in Feb of 2002. I had 6 months of lessons and I play daily, sometimes for hours and hours switching between a Stat copy and the Schecter (Schecter needs leveling). The Strat only shows minor wear and it has med. jumbo frets. I don't get it! I do play blues and rock and my fingers love to bend. I've been trying to use a lighter touch but I just get into it and squeeze.
Fret levelling is only one half of the equation ... a full Fret Dress is the best way to go and my Dean is currently in the shop undergoing that operation.
Right after the Frets are levelled, the tops are not crowned which is not a surface you want to play on ... the Full Fret dress Levels, Re-Crowns and Polishes ...
I took the Dean in nearly 2 years ago for a fret dress and the luthier bungled the operation and I was thinking that it needed a full re-fret. Luckily I was able to find a repair person locally and see their Fret Dresses first hand and play guitar that had undergone a Fret Dress from the same guy. He was confident that he could get it playing again, and I'm hoping he's successful.
BUT ALWAYS ALWAYS ask to see a sample of the Repair Tech/Luthier's fret 'work' if possible. After my first experience I will not hand my guitars for fret issues until I get a first hand view of the quality of their work.
There is really no set time period, I've owned my main player for three years and it has zero fretwear. I highly recommend buying a cheap neck to practice on if you're interested in fret work. I learned to do my own, and while it's not brain surgery, you really do need to do a few practice runs before working on the real thing. Certain setups also have certain challenges. I've found that for refretting, unbound rosewood boards are by far the easiest to work with. Most maple boards require refinishing after a refret, and Ebony boards are more likely to chip when the frets are pulled, especially if it's on an older guitar that hasn't been oiled. Bound necks also require you to undercut the fret tang, a task that's best accomplished with a specialized tool. Here are the tools I own that I can recommend:
fretting hammer
handheld fret press (not necessary, but very helpful. Either way, you still need the hammer in most cases)
radius blocks that match the radius of your neck
crowning file
end beveling file
fret bender
end nippers
fret pullers
radius gauges
cyanoacrylate adhesive
various grits of sandpaper
I'm probably forgetting something, but that's what I use. I spent about $300 on all these tools, but that's not too unreasonable when you figure a refret costs $200 or more and a level costs anywhere from $75-$120. Eventually, these tools will pay for themselves if you learn to do your own fretwork.
Ryan
There's no need to buy all these tools from StewMac for a sigular fret-dress job.
Instead of the neck jig just loosen the truss rod so that the neck is perfectly streight. The radius sanding beam can easily self-built: from : localhost/I think that for fret dressing a radius sanding block should not be necessary.
And the the fret file is also not necessary. If you are careful you can do it with a normal file (with triangular profile).
The only tool I will soon buy from stewmac is the fret slotting saw. Although I already have a japanese saw with exactly the required thickness I want to have a saw which I use for nothing else than this task.
There is no set time for needing a fret job, I'm really heavy handed, use a lot of vibrato and pulls, so anything short of jumbos need a job in one/two years if I play them regularly. Some people only need them after 10 years or more (so they say, I prefer not to have dead spots all over the board) and some guys wait 'till they're down to the wood. (Stainless frets are said to last, but a bit of a bugger to work with - not the world's most malleable metal and prone to jamming (sic) and slipping ).
Originally Posted by psyThere's no need to buy all these tools from StewMac for a sigular fret-dress job.
Instead of the neck jig just loosen the truss rod so that the neck is perfectly streight. The radius sanding beam can easily self-built: from : localhost/I think that for fret dressing a radius sanding block should not be necessary.
And the the fret file is also not necessary. If you are careful you can do it with a normal file (with triangular profile).
The only tool I will soon buy from stewmac is the fret slotting saw. Although I already have a japanese saw with exactly the required thickness I want to have a saw which I use for nothing else than this task.
Ive pulled off a fret something or other myself, I wont call it a quot;dressquot; quot;levelquot; or even correct at this point, BUT my Gibson studio doesnt fret out or buzz any more, has no fret wear and plays great, oh and the frets are shiny and smooth.
I bought a straight flat 10 inch file, got the neck straight, lay the file on the fret board WITHOUT applying pressure, just let the file weight do the work, run it over the entire board (after taping the wood, please) trying to maintain consistency throughout. Keep that up until your wear is gone, this way your removing material evenly. If you push down on that file in one spot, your done, you just wacked the job. It takes time. After that I used a 10 inch sanding block with few grades of fine paper until all file marks were gone, same procedure.
Worked for me....No crown, I guess Im a hack!
Whats the difference and why would you not want to play on a non crowned fret. I think I need to know this.......Thanks
Originally Posted by XSSIVEyeah at stewmac prices to buy all 3 tools i could have 6 necks fret leveled by my luthier (and thats if i only bought one block) and i know they won't be screwed up by me trying it out for the first time lol.
-MikeMike brings up an excellent point. Having the tools is only half of it. You ave to know what to do with them to do it properly. I have done this and it is not an easy thing to do. After I did my first fret leveling. I had to cut a new nut and saddle also. The frets are now lower. All in all I still think it is worth the investment in having a COMPETENT luthier do this type of job. It is very unrewarding, you can spend 2 to 3 hours making shiny metal bars more level and more shiny.
quot;Worked for me....No crown, I guess Im a hack!
Whats the difference and why would you not want to play on a non crowned fret. I think I need to know this.......Thanks
I have read in Guitar Player Repair Guide that flat top frets are prone to buzz as there is more surface to buzz on. Also, you may note a little sharp or flat depending where your noting between frets. Can't testify to any of this though!
Originally Posted by fatboywhitneyI have read in Guitar Player Repair Guide that flat top frets are prone to buzz as there is more surface to buzz on. Also, you may note a little sharp or flat depending where your noting between frets. Can't testify to any of this though!
That sounds completely plausible....hmmm. Learn something new everyday!
Originally Posted by DocrockWorked for me....No crown, I guess Im a hack!
Whats the difference and why would you not want to play on a non crowned fret. I think I need to know this.......Thanks
Well, never tried that, but most probably the intonatoin will suck. If you press the sting onto a flat fret the distance between the fret and bridge decreases and the tone moves to sharp. And you can't compensate that with tuning because each fret has different width after fret levelling and also the nut does not move towards bridge.
Yeah, leaving the frets uncrowned will result in worse intonation, and possibly more buzz as mentioned above. You don't necessarily need all the tools I mentioned, but the fewer the tools, the greater your skill needs to be. A master luthier could get by with a hammer, flat level, three corner file, nippers, adhesive, and some sandpaper. I am not a master luthier, so I bought tools to make the work much easier, such as radius blocks, a handheld fret press, a fret bender, and a diamond crowning file. You don't need the neck jig, but it does help keep the neck as straight as possible. If you don't use one, you need to make sure the neck is well supported and that you don't use too much pressure when doing the leveling. Otherwise, the neck will bow slightly, throwing off the straightness you spent so much time trying to achieve. If you're going to do this yourself, don't cheap out on the tools. Screw up a fret job, you're out time. Badly screw up a fret job, you're out time and lots of money, as you'll need to have a good luthier replace your fretboard and possibly your binding.
Ryan
how much does it cost for a full refret/redress/recrown on a guitar neck at a good luthier?
Originally Posted by Quencho092how much does it cost for a full refret/redress/recrown on a guitar neck at a good luthier?
It depends heavily on the type of guitar. The average is about $200 for an unbound neck. The price goes higher if it's a maple fretboard that needs refinishing, or if it's a bound neck. If you want stainless steel frets, the price is significantly higher, usually $300-$400.
Ryan
全站熱搜
留言列表
