software

How are these necks? I'm looking into getting one, but haven't heard much about them. Any opinions?

a lot of people seem to like them but I HATE compound radius necks, they feel so awkward to me. But like I said, a lot of people seem to like them.

I like the feel of the actual neck, but it's IMPOSSIBLE to get low action on it. 10-16quot; is just way too big of a spread. They try to please everyone, but it's really a pain to have to either have your strings high off the board or deal with a lot of buzz and fretting otu.

Me personally, I like the Warmoth compound radius. It's kinda like the best of both worlds. But, that's just me.


Originally Posted by mnbaseball91I like the feel of the actual neck, but it's IMPOSSIBLE to get low action on it. 10-16quot; is just way too big of a spread. They try to please everyone, but it's really a pain to have to either have your strings high off the board or deal with a lot of buzz and fretting otu.Hmmm..I've had no problem getting a low action. The key is a well-cut nut (cut the proper radius) and a bridge with adjustable saddles. If you are using a TOM or a wrap-around bridge, you'll have to file the middle saddles lower to get to the ~18 radius at the bridge.

As far as playability goes...it's completely transparent. I only notice it when I go to my non-compound radius guitars (80's Kramer and an SG). The I immediately notice the flatter radius and find it more difficult (especially the Kramer) to barre chord near the nut.

I've seen a few complaints From Floyd users having high action on the higher octave with the 10-16 radius. But I don't think any of them had tried flattening the 10quot; radius' that Floyds are setup for.


Originally Posted by mnbaseball91I like the feel of the actual neck, but it's IMPOSSIBLE to get low action on it. 10-16quot; is just way too big of a spread. They try to please everyone, but it's really a pain to have to either have your strings high off the board or deal with a lot of buzz and fretting otu.

Interesting....you´re the first person I´ve heard of with this problem, and I´ve built a few for people.....Are you sure the bridge saddles are adjusted correctly?? on a 10-16quot; they should be about 20quot; at the bridge...

In other words: Let me guess, you use a Floyd and didn´t take the time to shim the bridge saddles properly?

I can almost always get a Warmoth to play with an action of under 1/16quot;... without further fret dressing or similar.

^No, not a Floyd, a Gotoh 510 - but I think you're right about the bridge saddles anyway. It looks almost like the bridge was designed for a vintage Fender style radius, but I can't figure out how to adjust the saddles up and down. If anyone knows, that'd be great. If the only way to do it is actually filing them down, it would be great if someone could tell me how to do it properly.


Originally Posted by mnbaseball91^No, not a Floyd, a Gotoh 510 - but I think you're right about the bridge saddles anyway. It looks almost like the bridge was designed for a vintage Fender style radius, but I can't figure out how to adjust the saddles up and down. If anyone knows, that'd be great. If the only way to do it is actually filing them down, it would be great if someone could tell me how to do it properly.

The 510 is the wrap-around, right? I have that on one of my Warmoths, and I had to file deeper grooves into the middle 4 saddles.

I found these understring radius guages to be helpful:
from : localhost/needfile might work, but I used a nut file. Whatever you do, take it slowly, and keep taking breaks to check your progress.

from : localhost/www.stewmac.com/shop/Tools/Files.html

Thanks. It's not so bad that I'd spend all that money on tools to do it, but I'll see if I can borrow them from anyone.


Originally Posted by mnbaseball91Thanks. It's not so bad that I'd spend all that money on tools to do it, but I'll see if I can borrow them from anyone.

When you do it, keep in mind that it doesn't take too many swipes to make a big differene.