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I want to change the stock tuners on my 93 fender strat am. std (it is the only strat that gives me tuning problems when using the tremolo) with SCHALLER locking tuners. Do i need to drill new holes on the headstock for the new locking tuners or is there any model that is a direct replacement for the old ones without the need for any drilling e.t.c ?????

Is the nut properly cut? Seriously, tuning problems are more often a result of a poorly cut nut rather than slipping tuners. I've seen many people doing fairly aggressive vibrato work with older guitars and still using the stock 40 year old Klusons.

I'm sure the nut is not cut correctly since i have tuning problems mainly on the G string but i want to change the tuners anyway so as to be able to get a more heavy tremolo use(see D.Gilmour......he constantly uses the tremolo even for vibrato) while staying in tune. So back to my original question....................???

Nobody needs new tuners, unless you've got $10 tuners with the cheap chrome coverplate.

All you need is to get the nut slots seated properly and the intonation/truss rod adjusted to perfection. That'll cost you roughly $30, and put an end to your tuning hassles.
Buying new tuning pegs is like putting new spark plugs in a car that's missing a piston.

I think vintage size is 11/32quot;, but I'm not sure if the modern ones are the same or not. You might want to have someone verify that.


Originally Posted by GearjoneserNobody needs new tuners, unless you've got $10 tuners with the cheap chrome coverplate.

All you need is to get the nut slots seated properly and the intonation/truss rod adjusted to perfection. That'll cost you roughly $30, and put an end to your tuning hassles.
Buying new tuning pegs is like putting new spark plugs in a car that's missing a piston.
You've almost convinced me. I had to learn to setup all my guitars by myself easily, i can swap pickups e.t.c, i've modified pedals (i never regreted working on a music shop when i was a university student) and all of that mostly because i am not happy with the work done on many music shops over here and for the high prices they are asking. Problem is i never done anything on the nut slots of a guitar so i am not experienced on that and i am afraid to ruin one of my favorite guitars. BTW the stock tuners are standard non locking fender/schallers.....so they are not bad..........

Get Dan Erlewine's quot;How to Make Your Electric Guitar Play Great.quot; They sell it at Stew Mac, or you can sometimes find it in bookstores. He's got pretty detailed instructions about nut slotting as well as the other parts that go into the setup. If you're wanting to learn to do full setups and basic tech work, this would be a great book.

If you have those tuners and they're no older than that, they're probably fine. My MIA Peavey needed new tuners, but I don't know how well they were made to begin with. The tuners, nut, and saddles are all part of the equation, but the nut is usually the most likely culprit.

And don't worry, it's not that difficult to put a new nut on your guitar.

If you're uncomfortable playing with the nut slot, you could just try graphite powder or something to lubricate the nut slot. Even just running a pencil in the nut slot could help, or go and spend $1 on a tube of graphite powder.

I am all for locking tuners, on any Strat- or any guitar for that matter. It isn't about the whammy bar, it is about time- I can change strings in seconds with locking tuners. All of my guitars have them. They aren't a replacement for a properly cut nut, any more than straplocks help keep the guitar in tune. They are something that makes it easier to play guitar.

I can understand why fenderiarhs wants to install locking tuners (which, by the way, when you buy Schaller inline-style Locking Tuners, which were made for Fender Strats, they drop right in. Schaller makes the tuners Fender uses at the factory on some models) in regards to doing a lot of whammy work, and in the same breath I'll stand behind the Klusons with the slotted pins on my MIJ Strat (it holds the tune no matter how much I grab the whammy-bar). I can restring that guitar faster than any other I have, of which two have lockers.
BUT, from what I'm reading in this thread it appears I need to add another very important factor to my set-ups, and that's making sure the nut is doin' what it's supposed to be doin'.
I've done the graphite trick with pencil lead on a couple guitars I have, but it always seems like putting a band-aid on a problem that just won't go away. I definitely need to learn more about nut-filing.
Thanks
....Bob