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What would be the best nut for a trem arm strat with no floyd in order to keep it in tune? i know eddie van halen, before they invented floyd's, used a brass nut lubricated on his strat would that be the best?
I'm interested in this too, my MIM Fender Strat can't hold a tune for **** with this crap nut.
Brass is so soft that after a short while it will get groves worn into it and start causing tuning problems, not to mention that this will make your Strat a good bit brighter. Sopme guys swear by a graphtec nut but they take a bit of the highend off and I don't like that. Stew-Mac sells nuts made from something called quot;Slip Stonequot;, it is supposed to sound like bone but be slicker that graphite, but to be 100% honest a well cut bone nut with maybe a little bit of big bends nut sauce will be just fine...with a Strat with a vintage tremolo set up it's all in the set up...I have 3 different Strats...2 vintage trems, stock saddles and bone nuts and one with locking keys, roller nut and graphtec saddles...they all 3 stay in tune just fine.
LSR is by far the best! Yes, a stock nut with the proper preperation can be really nice but, the LSR will always be a tad better. Gee, will a string slide better in a groove or on ball bearings????? The Bearings will prevail by a bit!
Unless you do alot of heavy trem use, you will not need the LSR IMO unless you are very anal and dont want a Floyd! A good tech can set up the stock nut properly!
don't listen to TGWIF (lol kidding) but i think graphite and brass are the best...IMO at least. majority of my guitars have graphite nuts and one has brass which i like so much i'm building another with a brass nut and brass bridge.
-Mike
Once again, Bearings will move better than a groove in a peice of whatever material it is! The string will have alot less friction on it.
i never said they wouldn't i just don't like the metallic pingy tone of an LSR myself. just like i won't buy a strat with a 2pt modern trem...more metallic and brighter sounding than a vintage trem. if i wanted a 2pt trem i'd get a floyd
-Mike
graphite nuts are great if you don't mind the tonal change and brass is also great if, again you don't mind the tonal change AND you don't mind having a little extra work...you have tp keep the nut slots polished up and clean to avoid string hang ups. All that said, IMO rollers nuts are not the way to go...they can rattle, they hold gunk and dirt and have to be cleaned all the time, they rarely fit the neck (width) 100%, over all I think they are simply not a good choice.
Graph Tech Trem nuts rule
But a properly cut bone nut w/ a bit of pencil lead should cause just as few problems
The LSR is another great option, but needs proper care or it will turn from a godsend into a curse quite fast....
I have a LSR nut on my Floyd loaded Strat and I applied a little WD-40 to it with a Q-tip 3 years ago.
Still works perfectly. I guess a little WD-40 every three years qualifys as proper care......
Originally Posted by Robert S.I have a LSR nut on my Floyd loaded Strat and I applied a little WD-40 to it with a Q-tip 3 years ago.
Still works perfectly. I guess a little WD-40 every three years qualifys as proper care......
Assuming you otherwise maintain your axe well and don´t treat it like a chainsaw, that´s enough.... but if you ARE quot;a punk that doesn´t carequot;, well, we all know what I´m getting at ....
Originally Posted by the guy who invented fire...Stew-Mac sells nuts made from something called quot;Slip Stonequot;, it is supposed to sound like bone but be slicker that graphite, ...they all 3 stay in tune just fine.
I'm glad you posted this, as I didn't know about this. A graph tech in conjunction with locking tuners stays in tune perfectly. The guitars I've used this combonation on stay in tune better than a Floyd IMO. I hate Floyds. What a pain they are, and they do suck tone. The graph tech nut is fine on a fairly bright guitar, but I have another one that seems too dark, so this quot;slip stonequot; thing may provide a nice solution.
On regular bone and brass nuts; I have found that a lube called LUBE ONE by Slick 50 works miracles. It's heavier than WD and it's got teflon in it. It's in a red can at your local hardware store. I just drop a little drop into each nut slot and over each saddle break, and on the string retainers, with a tooth pick when changing strings.
LPB, I have not tried the quot;Slip Stonequot; but I have heard from some guys I trust that it's killer...I am gonna try it pretty soon but I just keep putting it off
LSR is okay in that strings will not bind, however, if you get a little dust/dirt in there ... good luck. The bearings are pretty tiny it doesn't take much to dirt/dust to get it to bind, cleaning it is a pain, imo.
As far as tone, the nut and saddles are a different ballgame. Yes, graphite saddles do make a difference in tone. That's why they came out with those saddles which are steel but the actual slot that strings rest on are graphite. I'm not so sure about those because if the string is touching the graphite then it sort of defeats the purpose, imo.
The nut is different.
On any fretted notes your finger acts as the nut. Ask yourself how many notes you fret and how many ring open when you play ... A little graphite (shaved from pencil lead or whatever) sprinkled into the slots cures string bindage.
I would go with graphite as my first choice, bone as my 2nd.
I know fender suggest a little chapstick on the string trees (dont believe read up on the site) is it practicle to put that or vasaline in the slots of the nut like you would pencil shaving? has anyone tried this
Originally Posted by unleashthejayI know fender suggest a little chapstick on the string trees (dont believe read up on the site) is it practicle to put that or vasaline in the slots of the nut like you would pencil shaving? has anyone tried this
I've never tried it, but I'm sure it will work. That's basically the purpose of chapstick anyway.I don't know for sure what it is, but I think the nut on my Peavey is graphite. It's black, so that's what I'm guessing. I've got locking tuners, a vintage bridge, and a Hipshot Tremsetter. I have no tuning problems at all. The nut is cut properly, though, so the rest is just an added bonus. It would probably do just as well with a bone nut.
Originally Posted by JacksonMIAI've never tried it, but I'm sure it will work. That's basically the purpose of chapstick anyway.I don't know for sure what it is, but I think the nut on my Peavey is graphite. It's black, so that's what I'm guessing. I've got locking tuners, a vintage bridge, and a Hipshot Tremsetter. I have no tuning problems at all. The nut is cut properly, though, so the rest is just an added bonus. It would probably do just as well with a bone nut.
I don't wanna totally hijack the thread but how do you have your bridge set? Is it floating? I always thought the trem setter was designed for floating bridges. Anyone use an Earvana nut?
Originally Posted by the guy who invented fireLPB, I have not tried the quot;Slip Stonequot; but I have heard from some guys I trust that it's killer...I am gonna try it pretty soon but I just keep putting it off
I have it. It is pretty soft is all. You have to treat it nice.
I'm interested in this too, my MIM Fender Strat can't hold a tune for **** with this crap nut.
Brass is so soft that after a short while it will get groves worn into it and start causing tuning problems, not to mention that this will make your Strat a good bit brighter. Sopme guys swear by a graphtec nut but they take a bit of the highend off and I don't like that. Stew-Mac sells nuts made from something called quot;Slip Stonequot;, it is supposed to sound like bone but be slicker that graphite, but to be 100% honest a well cut bone nut with maybe a little bit of big bends nut sauce will be just fine...with a Strat with a vintage tremolo set up it's all in the set up...I have 3 different Strats...2 vintage trems, stock saddles and bone nuts and one with locking keys, roller nut and graphtec saddles...they all 3 stay in tune just fine.
LSR is by far the best! Yes, a stock nut with the proper preperation can be really nice but, the LSR will always be a tad better. Gee, will a string slide better in a groove or on ball bearings????? The Bearings will prevail by a bit!
Unless you do alot of heavy trem use, you will not need the LSR IMO unless you are very anal and dont want a Floyd! A good tech can set up the stock nut properly!
don't listen to TGWIF (lol kidding) but i think graphite and brass are the best...IMO at least. majority of my guitars have graphite nuts and one has brass which i like so much i'm building another with a brass nut and brass bridge.
-Mike
Once again, Bearings will move better than a groove in a peice of whatever material it is! The string will have alot less friction on it.
i never said they wouldn't i just don't like the metallic pingy tone of an LSR myself. just like i won't buy a strat with a 2pt modern trem...more metallic and brighter sounding than a vintage trem. if i wanted a 2pt trem i'd get a floyd
-Mike
graphite nuts are great if you don't mind the tonal change and brass is also great if, again you don't mind the tonal change AND you don't mind having a little extra work...you have tp keep the nut slots polished up and clean to avoid string hang ups. All that said, IMO rollers nuts are not the way to go...they can rattle, they hold gunk and dirt and have to be cleaned all the time, they rarely fit the neck (width) 100%, over all I think they are simply not a good choice.
Graph Tech Trem nuts rule
But a properly cut bone nut w/ a bit of pencil lead should cause just as few problems
The LSR is another great option, but needs proper care or it will turn from a godsend into a curse quite fast....
I have a LSR nut on my Floyd loaded Strat and I applied a little WD-40 to it with a Q-tip 3 years ago.
Still works perfectly. I guess a little WD-40 every three years qualifys as proper care......
Originally Posted by Robert S.I have a LSR nut on my Floyd loaded Strat and I applied a little WD-40 to it with a Q-tip 3 years ago.
Still works perfectly. I guess a little WD-40 every three years qualifys as proper care......
Assuming you otherwise maintain your axe well and don´t treat it like a chainsaw, that´s enough.... but if you ARE quot;a punk that doesn´t carequot;, well, we all know what I´m getting at ....
Originally Posted by the guy who invented fire...Stew-Mac sells nuts made from something called quot;Slip Stonequot;, it is supposed to sound like bone but be slicker that graphite, ...they all 3 stay in tune just fine.
I'm glad you posted this, as I didn't know about this. A graph tech in conjunction with locking tuners stays in tune perfectly. The guitars I've used this combonation on stay in tune better than a Floyd IMO. I hate Floyds. What a pain they are, and they do suck tone. The graph tech nut is fine on a fairly bright guitar, but I have another one that seems too dark, so this quot;slip stonequot; thing may provide a nice solution.
On regular bone and brass nuts; I have found that a lube called LUBE ONE by Slick 50 works miracles. It's heavier than WD and it's got teflon in it. It's in a red can at your local hardware store. I just drop a little drop into each nut slot and over each saddle break, and on the string retainers, with a tooth pick when changing strings.
LPB, I have not tried the quot;Slip Stonequot; but I have heard from some guys I trust that it's killer...I am gonna try it pretty soon but I just keep putting it off
LSR is okay in that strings will not bind, however, if you get a little dust/dirt in there ... good luck. The bearings are pretty tiny it doesn't take much to dirt/dust to get it to bind, cleaning it is a pain, imo.
As far as tone, the nut and saddles are a different ballgame. Yes, graphite saddles do make a difference in tone. That's why they came out with those saddles which are steel but the actual slot that strings rest on are graphite. I'm not so sure about those because if the string is touching the graphite then it sort of defeats the purpose, imo.
The nut is different.
On any fretted notes your finger acts as the nut. Ask yourself how many notes you fret and how many ring open when you play ... A little graphite (shaved from pencil lead or whatever) sprinkled into the slots cures string bindage.
I would go with graphite as my first choice, bone as my 2nd.
I know fender suggest a little chapstick on the string trees (dont believe read up on the site) is it practicle to put that or vasaline in the slots of the nut like you would pencil shaving? has anyone tried this
Originally Posted by unleashthejayI know fender suggest a little chapstick on the string trees (dont believe read up on the site) is it practicle to put that or vasaline in the slots of the nut like you would pencil shaving? has anyone tried this
I've never tried it, but I'm sure it will work. That's basically the purpose of chapstick anyway.I don't know for sure what it is, but I think the nut on my Peavey is graphite. It's black, so that's what I'm guessing. I've got locking tuners, a vintage bridge, and a Hipshot Tremsetter. I have no tuning problems at all. The nut is cut properly, though, so the rest is just an added bonus. It would probably do just as well with a bone nut.
Originally Posted by JacksonMIAI've never tried it, but I'm sure it will work. That's basically the purpose of chapstick anyway.I don't know for sure what it is, but I think the nut on my Peavey is graphite. It's black, so that's what I'm guessing. I've got locking tuners, a vintage bridge, and a Hipshot Tremsetter. I have no tuning problems at all. The nut is cut properly, though, so the rest is just an added bonus. It would probably do just as well with a bone nut.
I don't wanna totally hijack the thread but how do you have your bridge set? Is it floating? I always thought the trem setter was designed for floating bridges. Anyone use an Earvana nut?
Originally Posted by the guy who invented fireLPB, I have not tried the quot;Slip Stonequot; but I have heard from some guys I trust that it's killer...I am gonna try it pretty soon but I just keep putting it off
I have it. It is pretty soft is all. You have to treat it nice.
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