I sanded the solder surface with 120 grit sandpaper, but it's been half an hour and the solder still doesn't adhere. What more can I do? The soldering iron is 30 watts and has never had problems soldering at the back of pots before. This switch is new.
Make sure you tin the wires lightly with solder first. And heat the surface on the switch first before applying for solder. On switches I normally don't have to scratch them up.
I did all that. Basically the position is awkward to solder it in, so I'll first put solder on the surface, then place the switch, heat it and put the wire in the solder. So far all I did was heat the surface, and the solder just won't adhere at all... I'm a bit clueless.
It's best to solder things in not so awkward positions. You need to heat the surface, put the pre-tined wire on it, then apply solder. Let me ask you this, are you trying to solder a wire to one of the switch lugs? Can you put the wire through the lug?
Nope. This is the grounding wire of another switch. I'm trying to put it onto one of the side's metal plate. It's a DPDT miniswitch.
And I tried this with the wire: the solder solidified on the wire but didn't stick to the metal.
To be truly honest, I've never ran a ground wire to a mini toggle. If your control cavity is shielded, like with foil or conductive paint or tape, you don't need that ground wire. The switch would be already grounded just from being mounted in the guitar because the top of the switch also has that little bit of metal and it's touching the shielding.
You're in the process of possibly creating a very annoying ground loop.
The cavity isn't shielded...
I'd ground it somewhere else but I can't if the solder just doesn't adhere in the first place.
I wired it without the grounding. Can I try it safely, or is it dangerous?
Is this a top routed guitar with a pickguard (Strat) or rear routed with no pickguard? If you have a pickguard, does it has aluminum shielding on it? If it does, you're covered as far as the switch ground.
Nope it's a back routed Strat.
Can I just put Aluminium around the tip under the hole?
I had a tough time too when I tried to solder to those tiny little lugs on a mini pot. My solution was to first solder little jumper wires (about 1/2quot; long) to the lugs, and then make the connections from the wiring leads to those jumpers.
It doesn't look pretty, but the flexibility of the jumpers gave me the quot;elbowquot; room I needed to work with.
I also used a dab of flux. It really helped make a quick melt and connection
Pierre, you should be OK without it. Try it out. If you have to, and you should anyway, shield the cavity with aluminum foil and spray glue. There's some sites on the net about doing this very thing. Guitarnuts.com is one, Projectguitar.com is another.
Sabe made a good point too, make sure you have enough flux there. You should use 60/40 rosin core solder, or 63/37 rosin core. The rosin acts as flux to help the solder adhere.
I have 40/60 rosin core solder. Maybe it's 60/40 but in a different order? I'll go buy the proper thing today or tomorrow. Thanks guys!
Pierre, I had the same problem as you trying to ground the switch itself. Someone here told me to try and attach the switch ground to the little tab (points down) on the bottom keyed washer. I have the same problem there also. Put the project on hold. I am using 60/40 electronics solder that works everywhere else also. I think i'll use a wiring lug under the bottom washer, those are made for soldering to.
You got the right solder. A good cavity shielding and the wire can go away. It'll then share the ground plane with the pots shaft as well because they'd both be touching the shielding when mounted.
Check out the stuff on guitarnuts.com. The quot;Quieting the Beastquot; mod is highly recommended.
1.) The metal sides of your mini-switch are probably chrome plated and not designed to ‘donate’ metals to the solder alloy.
2.) If you have been soldering for half an hour, the switch’s internal plastic components may be ruined.
3.) Don’t use sandpaper to rough up the surface of any component (i.e. pots). A Pencil eraser is sufficient to remove any tarnishing / oxidation that would interfere with a good solder connection.
Sandpaper is too rough and can remove the metal plating (exposing the base metal) making soldering harder.
4.) Instead solder a wire to a tinned star-washer and place it between the switch and the nut. Or better yet, apply copper shielding tape the pickguard. All mounted components will be grounded to the shielding without the need for additional wiring between components. (You will only need to ground the pickguard)
Make sure you tin the wires lightly with solder first. And heat the surface on the switch first before applying for solder. On switches I normally don't have to scratch them up.
I did all that. Basically the position is awkward to solder it in, so I'll first put solder on the surface, then place the switch, heat it and put the wire in the solder. So far all I did was heat the surface, and the solder just won't adhere at all... I'm a bit clueless.
It's best to solder things in not so awkward positions. You need to heat the surface, put the pre-tined wire on it, then apply solder. Let me ask you this, are you trying to solder a wire to one of the switch lugs? Can you put the wire through the lug?
Nope. This is the grounding wire of another switch. I'm trying to put it onto one of the side's metal plate. It's a DPDT miniswitch.
And I tried this with the wire: the solder solidified on the wire but didn't stick to the metal.
To be truly honest, I've never ran a ground wire to a mini toggle. If your control cavity is shielded, like with foil or conductive paint or tape, you don't need that ground wire. The switch would be already grounded just from being mounted in the guitar because the top of the switch also has that little bit of metal and it's touching the shielding.
You're in the process of possibly creating a very annoying ground loop.
The cavity isn't shielded...
I'd ground it somewhere else but I can't if the solder just doesn't adhere in the first place.
I wired it without the grounding. Can I try it safely, or is it dangerous?
Is this a top routed guitar with a pickguard (Strat) or rear routed with no pickguard? If you have a pickguard, does it has aluminum shielding on it? If it does, you're covered as far as the switch ground.
Nope it's a back routed Strat.
Can I just put Aluminium around the tip under the hole?
I had a tough time too when I tried to solder to those tiny little lugs on a mini pot. My solution was to first solder little jumper wires (about 1/2quot; long) to the lugs, and then make the connections from the wiring leads to those jumpers.
It doesn't look pretty, but the flexibility of the jumpers gave me the quot;elbowquot; room I needed to work with.
I also used a dab of flux. It really helped make a quick melt and connection
Pierre, you should be OK without it. Try it out. If you have to, and you should anyway, shield the cavity with aluminum foil and spray glue. There's some sites on the net about doing this very thing. Guitarnuts.com is one, Projectguitar.com is another.
Sabe made a good point too, make sure you have enough flux there. You should use 60/40 rosin core solder, or 63/37 rosin core. The rosin acts as flux to help the solder adhere.
I have 40/60 rosin core solder. Maybe it's 60/40 but in a different order? I'll go buy the proper thing today or tomorrow. Thanks guys!
Pierre, I had the same problem as you trying to ground the switch itself. Someone here told me to try and attach the switch ground to the little tab (points down) on the bottom keyed washer. I have the same problem there also. Put the project on hold. I am using 60/40 electronics solder that works everywhere else also. I think i'll use a wiring lug under the bottom washer, those are made for soldering to.
You got the right solder. A good cavity shielding and the wire can go away. It'll then share the ground plane with the pots shaft as well because they'd both be touching the shielding when mounted.
Check out the stuff on guitarnuts.com. The quot;Quieting the Beastquot; mod is highly recommended.
1.) The metal sides of your mini-switch are probably chrome plated and not designed to ‘donate’ metals to the solder alloy.
2.) If you have been soldering for half an hour, the switch’s internal plastic components may be ruined.
3.) Don’t use sandpaper to rough up the surface of any component (i.e. pots). A Pencil eraser is sufficient to remove any tarnishing / oxidation that would interfere with a good solder connection.
Sandpaper is too rough and can remove the metal plating (exposing the base metal) making soldering harder.
4.) Instead solder a wire to a tinned star-washer and place it between the switch and the nut. Or better yet, apply copper shielding tape the pickguard. All mounted components will be grounded to the shielding without the need for additional wiring between components. (You will only need to ground the pickguard)
全站熱搜
留言列表
