software

I have a PEAVEY 112M Monitor. Passive, but with a volume control and a high freq horn. About a year or more old.... close to 35 - 40 gigs under it's belt.

We had some issues with a couple of our monitors a few gigs ago, thought we had blown the speakers in two of them. Turns out, we had screwed up some connections, and one of the quot;blownquot; monitors wasn't blown after all.

Now we can't get the Peavey to work. I am afraid it actually IS broken now, likely due to either the initial mistake or in trying to troubleshoot the quot;multiplequot; monitor problem.

I tried to read the speaker (disconnected) with an Ohmeter, and got no sensible reading. It seems as if it is trying to read a high resistance, but doesn't read infinity. I also read the High Freq Horn and got the same reading. I expected to read 4 or 8 ohms from each but neither seems to be reading the correct resistance. THe potentiometer (actually looks like a rheostat) seems to be fine, its resistance varies from 1 to about 58 ohms as I manipulate the wiper.

There is no crossover circuit board inside, which surprised me. So the only things that I know that could be wrong is the speaker, the horn or both. This is the second speaker that this monitor has blown, the first was fixed under warranty, so I didn't get to test it out. It seems like a very cheap, weak speaker, the magnet is tiny and the speaker weighs less tha 2-3 lbs.

My question is 3-fold...

1) Does it make sense to have both the horn and the speaker open with no visible damage (sound comes out of the horn, but it is very weak and quot;spittyquot;). We have extensively troubleshot the monitor, plugging in a KNOWN good signal (works with all other monitors) and we get just the nearly inaudible, gritty, spitty high stuff from the horn alone.

2) If I replace them, should I get a better speaker, and if so, how do I know it will be compatible with the Rheostat/Potentiometer and the old or new horn... Finally...
3) Should I replace the horn, or just leave it disconnected and go with a really good speaker alone?

Thanks in advance for your assistance!

Geno

Bump to top... Anyone???

It sounds like the woofer is quot;openquot;. You should read close to the speakers impedance with an ohmmeter. If it was me, I'd disconnect the woofer, and test it independently. There's no crossover because its probably a piezo tweeter. They don't need cross-over's because of the way they work.

And . . . they will read as you describe - thus, the quot;openquot; woofer.

Thanks ArtieToo...

That is exactly how I tested the woofer.. With it completely disconnected.
If I buy a replacement that handles a much higher wattage than the original, will it be compatible with tweeter and the Rheostat?

Thanks Again.

Geno

Maybe . . . the thing is, its more a matter of the speakers efficiency, (rated in SPL per watt), that will determine how it balances with the tweeter. The good thing is, with the rheostat, hopefully, you will be able to balance the tweeter to the woofer.

One other thing, I'm fairly certain that with piezo's, you could just add another to boost the high-frequency balance. (Assuming there's a place to mount it.) You want to try to avoid quot;re-engineeringquot; the speaker too much, however.