software

Ok this will be my pup configuration:

3 lil Humbuckers, Neck and Mid have 4 conductor cables, Bridge has 2.

1st pos (switch in the bridge direction) Bridge only
2nd pos Bridge and Mid without any Split
3rd pos Mid only
4th pos Mid and Neck with both split (if this is also humbucking)
5th pos Neck only

Heres the unwired schematic for that...
Now if someone could plese be so nice as to quot;wirequot; it up for me cause I'm not really sure how to do that kind of config...

many thanks

I can cover this as soon as I get home. (About 7 hours.) If no one else covers it first.

Artie

btw - That was awful nice of you to give me a clean slate to work with. Makes the job a lot easier.

I would really appreciate if you did...

Are you sure you really want three tone controls with no volume? My personal favorite is master volume, master tone, and a blender pot. I really think you'll be sorry if you don't have a volume control.

Ryan

What I'd was thinking of doing, was to make you up 3 or 4 different configurations, and ideas. Then you can look them over and decide which you prefer.

I'll do the 3 tones, 3 volumes, volume/tone/blend, and something new thats my own idea.

Well ok and maybe add the standard 2 tone 1 volume please...

Hey kommerz; Can you tell me exactly which three models, (pups), you're going to use. I just want to make sure I get the colors right. I'm certain of the neck/middle, but I want to be extra sure on that bridge pup.

Well I'm about 99% sure to use a Hotrails Neck, JB Jr Mid, Duckbuckers Bridge ... i know that looks a bit unusual but I want it that way

Ok, lets do the easy one first, the standard 1 volume, 2 tones, is on the SD website:

3 hums, 1 volume, 2 tones

Btw - thats definitely you best choice, although, doing the Fralin blend pot would be cool to.

On these next two drawings, I used a photo for the 5-way because I realized that some 5-ways have the quot;commonquot; lug on the top, and some have it on the bottom. So its important to understand that the common terminal, (longest one - green arrow), is the wire that connects to the output terminal, regarless of whether its on the top or bottom.

Here's with 3 tone controls:And, here's with 3 volume controls:I'm working on one more, but that should get you started. Oh yeah, on my two drawings, I didn't show the red/white wires to keep the drawing neat. They just solder together and tape them up, on all three pups. (Those that have 4-wires, that is.)

Let me know if you have any questions, or if any of this doesn't make sense.

Artie

you're gonna want 500k pots, not those little 250k....remember, you're working with humbuckers here, no matter how big they are...you need 500 k

Thanks @ artie but could you insert the coil splitting for the Neck amp; Mid pup?
And could you mable please tell me how this 5 way switch works so I could maybe modify the schematics by myself if needed (I mean which solder points are activated in the different positions)? And what does that .022 mean?

@ Capo... SD recommends 250k for SC HBs and it wouldn't even hurt to use them with full sized ones...


Originally Posted by CapoFirstFretyou're gonna want 500k pots, not those little 250k....remember, you're working with humbuckers here, no matter how big they are...you need 500 k

I have 250k pots with my humbuckers.

It's just a recommentation.. everyone can use those who suit his sound best...

At last .. i've thought about what I'm gonna do and I'll use 3 Volumes (or Tones) an extra overlord master kill switch ...
or maybe I'll put in a multi on off on switch instead of the toggle killer so I can switch what the potis do from tone (#1) to volume(2#) and while #3 would kill the hole signal (i'm currently looking for the right switch for that)... since i have basic electronic technics (or how this is called in english) knowledge and this is simpli a matter of standard wiring this shouldn't be a problem...
So Artie, if you could just explain me the 5 way switch positions as i said before, the coil splitting and what the .022 means I'd be fine...
thanks alot


Originally Posted by KommerzbassistThanks @ artie but could you insert the coil splitting for the Neck amp; Mid pup?
And could you mable please tell me how this 5 way switch works so I could maybe modify the schematics by myself if needed (I mean which solder points are activated in the different positions)? And what does that .022 mean?

@ Capo... SD recommends 250k for SC HBs and it wouldn't even hurt to use them with full sized ones...

When I get home tonight, I'll add the split switch stuff.

Use this pic as a reference:The finger points to the quot;commonquot; terminal. Sometimes its on the top, and sometimes its on the bottom. You just have to look closely and see.

In this pic, the quot;commonquot; terminal is the red lug on one side, which connects to pink lugs, and the blue lug on the other side, that connects to cyan lugs:The quot;.022quot; is your tone cap.

Edit: I just noticed that this is a perfect example of how some work backwards. That drawing was made from the official Fender 5-way that I have on my desk. Its the opposite of the Stew-Mac switch that I posted. In other words, those blue and red squares would flip end-for-end. Thats why you have to look closely at your own switch.

Well thanks... but 2 more questions:

[QUOTE=ArtieToo]
The quot;.022quot; is your tone cap.
QUOTE]

Hmm never saw that anywhere... does it look like a normal capacitor, is it somewhere special or is it just the poti's variable value?And would it make a difference if I, when using the pots as tone, put the wire that goes from the pot to the 5-Way switch to the 3rd position of the pot (the one that's blank in your schem)?


Originally Posted by KommerzbassistWell thanks... but 2 more questions:Originally Posted by ArtieTooThe quot;.022quot; is your tone cap.

Hmm never saw that anywhere... does it look like a normal capacitor, is it somewhere special or is it just the poti's variable value?

Yes, its a quot;regularquot; cap. I used that just because its whats on the SD schematic. Popular guitar values would be .047uf, .022uf, and .01uf. You can use whichever you prefer. The larger the number, the lower into the frequency spectrum you roll-off. Originally Posted by KommerzbassistAnd would it make a difference if I, when using the pots as tone, put the wire that goes from the pot to the 5-Way switch to the 3rd position of the pot (the one that's blank in your schem)?

Well, it'll make a difference as to whether it works or not.
The active portion of a pot, is the center terminal, or quot;wiperquot;. Without it, the pot is just a resistor. Volume controls use all three terminals, tone controls use two. But one must be the center.

Oh well and where's that cap? I can't remeber I've seen it last time i opened my guitar... and is the u before the Fard supposed to mean micro?

What does the 3rd terminal on a pot do?

Do you know if there's a guitar switch on the market which allows the following:
So a,b amp;c would be the terminals of the pot, 1 goes to the 5 way switch, 2 to ground and 3 to ground over the capacitor...

I know I'm asking alot of stuff and I hope I'm not annoying you too much otherwise just tell me and I'll stop...

thanks once again


Originally Posted by KommerzbassistOh well and where's that cap? I can't remeber I've seen it last time i opened my guitar... and is the u before the Fard supposed to mean micro?

What does the 3rd terminal on a pot do?

Do you know if there's a guitar switch on the market which allows the following:
So a,b amp;c would be the terminals of the pot, 1 goes to the 5 way switch, 2 to ground and 3 to ground over the capacitor...

I know I'm asking alot of stuff and I hope I'm not annoying you too much otherwise just tell me and I'll stop...

thanks once again

You aren't annoying me . . . it's why I'm here.

Yes, the quot;uquot; means micro. .047uf = .000047 farad.

There's three terminals on a pot. The outside two are the ends of a carbon ribbon that comprise a resistor. The middle terminal is a quot;wiperquot; that slides along that strip, giving a pot the functionality that it was designed to accomplish.

That switch you need is a simple, common DPDT switch. You'll have to wait 'til I get home to show you how to wire it up for that sequence. (I can't post pics at work.)

Artie

Edit: I can easily describe how the switch wires up. A DPDT switch has six terminals. Two quot;commonsquot;, and each common has two landing positions. So . . .

Line 1 goes to the common of one switch.
A amp; B go to its two terminals.
Line C goes to the other common.
2 amp; 3 go to its other two terminals.

Like I said, I'll post a pic when I get home.

Well thanks