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I finally got around to shaping the saddle for my freebie Conn acoustic. I've got it to where it fits the bridge slot nice and snug, and fits well. I'm not sure how to approach shaping the top, however. All the links I can find assume you're replacing a saddle and have you use the old one for a pattern. I don't have the old saddle. Anyone have some tips, and/or links?

Also, I'm wondering if this material, (from Stew-Mac), is really bone. Would anyone care to PM me their address and let me send the scrap piece that I cut off, and tell me if this really is bone?

Thanks all.

Artie


Originally Posted by ArtieTooI finally got around to shaping the saddle for my freebie Conn acoustic. I've got it to where it fits the bridge slot nice and snug, and fits well. I'm not sure how to approach shaping the top, however. All the links I can find assume you're replacing a saddle and have you use the old one for a pattern. I don't have the old saddle. Anyone have some tips, and/or links?

Also, I'm wondering if this material, (from Stew-Mac), is really bone. Would anyone care to PM me their address and let me send the scrap piece that I cut off, and tell me if this really is bone?

Thanks all.

Artie

Hi Artie, I'd probably just do a nice rounded shape on top so that the string contacts a single point and doesn't buzz. I'd keep it simple. There are techniques for having the strings contact the front edge or back edge or for making them all contact the front edge except for the B string which might benefit intonation wise from having it contact the back edge...but if this is your first saddle you might want to keep it simple and just round the top like a nicely crowned fret. If Stew Mac says it's bone it's probably bone.

Lew

Thanks Lew. I'm probably reading too much into this. I think I can do that. If not . . . well, thats why I bought two bone blanks.

Artie

Came out pretty good, for my first attempt.

Thanks again Lew.
Artie

If you get a pencil and sharpen it to a point, then shave one side of it until the distance from the point to the flat you create is approximately double the desired action height at the 12th fret, you can use the 12th fret as a template to scribe the arc on a piece of card then transfer it to the saddle. This is similar to the technique described in Cumpiano and Natelson's book Guitarmaking: history and Technology for marking out the low point of the nut slots on a nut blank.

Looks a bit high, at first sight. Wouldn't you prefer a lower action, or is that just me?
Nice curve though.

Thanks octavedoctor. Thats a good tip. I may need to reshape it slightly.Originally Posted by JeroenLooks a bit high, at first sight. Wouldn't you prefer a lower action, or is that just me?

Yeah, it may be. I purposely left it a bit high until I can string it up and check it. I can always sand a bit off the bottom of the saddle 'til I get the action right.

Artie