I bought a Tele body for my project, but I don't really want a Tele head stock on my neck. Will Warmoth make a Strat or Gibson headed neck with the flat Tele neck pocket, or am I stuck with a Tele neck? I'm shopping for tuners right now and I'm not sure what to get. I wish they were open weekends!
they will put any headstock you want on it.
reverse '70s style (big) strat headstocks look cool on teles...wattage has two like that!
as for tuners i have used schaller locking, sperzel locking and planet waves locking and cutting and all three are great tuners IMO.
-Mike
Awsome! My first choice would be a Gibson 3 3 headstock. It will look cool on a Tele body I think. I think I'm going to get locking Grovers.
What about the 24quot; scale necks? Do you think I can get a flat neck pocket for those too?
Another option for necks is USA Custom Guitars, I know they'll put your choice of rounded or flat neck butt for no extra charge.
I was at their site and I remember them being more expensive with less options that Warmoth.
Originally Posted by big_blackI was at their site and I remember them being more expensive with less options that Warmoth.Weird, it was the exact opposite for what I wanted out of the neck for my strat project . They came out a hundred or so bucks below Warmoth and allowed a neck profile I couldn't have gotten w/ the big W.
Originally Posted by big_blackI was at their site and I remember them being more expensive with less options that Warmoth.most iof the time Tommy's stuff is a few dollars more, but he has far more options, and because he is NOT bound by the Fender LIC agreement, he can do whatever you want, and he's a cool guy to boot!
Warmoth starts out at $173 for maple/maple, UASCG starts out at $190. Slightly higher.
I just love the Gibson headstock. I'm not very thrilled about his 3 3 designs.
Originally Posted by big_blackWarmoth starts out at $173 for maple/maple, UASCG starts out at $190. Slightly higher.Ah, but he doesn't upcharge for a lot of the basic options, like the backshape for example. I wasn't really sure what 3x3 designs he had, just wanted to throw that option out there. Good luck bro!
Before you buy a tilt-back headstock from Warmoth, you may want to find out if they still use a quot;scarf jointquot; to attach the headstock to the rest of the neck. I can't tell from looking at their site now. Warmoth may use a 1-piece neck amp; headstock now. (IIRC that's USACG's approach.)
A scarf joint is not the strongest. Also, most of the joint sits directly underneath the nut and that's probably not good for tone or sustain.
The website is clear that you can only get the Warmoth quot;Proquot; construction in tilt-back headstocks with that double expanding truss rod. Several of us agree that it's a black-hole for tone based on A/B comparisons with a traditional, 1-piece truss rod. However, YMMV.
Chip
^Good points. Looks like some healthy research is in order .
It looks like they use 1-piece necks:
from : localhost/
I had not heard that about the truss rod. That is contrary to what they say about it- something to think about, thanks.
Originally Posted by big_blackIt looks like they use 1-piece necks:
from : localhost/
I had not heard that about the truss rod. That is contrary to what they say about it- something to think about, thanks.
That's a scarf join ... you can tell by the change in grain, and if you look even closer you can see the join arc on the upper side of the neck, the join ends about just under an inch back from the nut
I would agree that the join might create a less resonant neck as there is a grain and glue barrier, but I don't buy the strength argument
The main fear about Scarf joins from a woodworking perspective is somewhat unfounded. IMO it's most likely stronger than just a one piece neck. From looking at a large number of broken off headstocks tends to beck me up in my opinion that the join is not the fault, but the lack of a strong volute to brace the tilted headstock design. A properly glued and set join should be stronger than the natural grain of the wood. Which explains that on a number of the Gibson necks that I've seen, the break is the wood directly at the nut, not a clean break at the join. Most of the snapped headstocks I've seen from Gibson/Epiphone and Jackson all had one feature missing ... a volute. You guys want to know what I think is the best neck design out there? Look at how Hamer designs their necks out of 3 laminates with the grain of the middle laminate running opposite to the rest. That is one structurallysound design IMHO.
You can barely see in these photo's (the top one is Evan's neck)
Wow, there is no way I'm spending that kind of moeny on a two piece neck. I looked at some other showcase necks and it is more obvious. Thanks for the heads up!
from : localhost/www.warmoth.com/showcase/sc_g...subMenuItem2=1
Originally Posted by big_blackWow, there is no way I'm spending that kind of moeny on a two piece neck. I looked at some other showcase necks and it is more obvious. Thanks for the heads up!
from : localhost/general, one-piece necks are more prone to warping than properly built necks made of multiple pieces. In fact, I don't like one-piece necks at all, I think it's mostly a case where people assume that fewer pieces is better. I agree that Hamer's approach is excellent. They use a three piece neck with opposing grain patterns, which results in a very stable neck without having to resort to a double truss rod.
Speaking of which, my personal belief is that the benefits of a double truss rod far outweigh any minor differences in tone. In fact, I own two guitars with double expanding truss rods and neither of them have a poor unplugged tone. Quite the contrary. But I know some people claim to hear a difference, so I'm not saying anyone is right or wrong. Kind of like the stainless steel fret argument. Some people (Ed Roman ) claim they sound horribly bright, others hear no appreciable difference in tone.
Ryan
Originally Posted by TheProphetThe main fear about Scarf joins from a woodworking perspective is somewhat unfounded. IMO it's most likely stronger than just a one piece neck. From looking at a large number of broken off headstocks tends to beck me up in my opinion that the join is not the fault, but the lack of a strong volute to brace the tilted headstock design. A properly glued and set join should be stronger than the natural grain of the wood. Which explains that on a number of the Gibson necks that I've seen, the break is the wood directly at the nut, not a clean break at the join. Most of the snapped headstocks I've seen from Gibson/Epiphone and Jackson all had one feature missing ... a volute.
Just FYI, we discuss the scarf joint on our site in detail - it's in the 13 degree angled quot;anatomyquot; page. Just click on the relevant links in the diagram:
from : localhost/www.warmoth.com/guitar/necks/...eaction=angled
hey...all those 5-24-02 necks were made on my b-day...first time i saw my b-day on a guitar...cool...
ok back to your regular post lol....
-Mike
Originally Posted by bwbassJust FYI, we discuss the scarf joint on our site in detail - it's in the 13 degree angled quot;anatomyquot; page. Just click on the relevant links in the diagram:
from : localhost/what do you think of the volute as another method of supporting the tiltback design stress wise? In conjunction with or without the scarf there.
I'm not suprised that my theory about the scarf joint being stronger than a one piece, but I'm curiosu as to your thoughts on the plus and minus's of the volute as part of neck design
- May 04 Tue 2010 20:58
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