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trying to make slight adjustment to the tuning on my OFR. All strings are a little flat. I've never been a fan of tuning FR's, any tips to make it easier? I'm just trying to tune up while the nut is still locked down.

You'll probably have to unclamp it if they've all drifted.


Originally Posted by JB_From_HellYou'll probably have to unclamp it if they've all drifted.

True That!

Man, I LOVE double locking tremelo bridges

I owned a Jackson and a Washburn that both made me dis-like the floaters, but the Kahler Spyder has won be over for good.

Rock On

I wanna get this down. My Gamp;L Invader rocks and I don't want to give up on it due to the floyd like I have on other guitars. Actually I have no choice, this is my only guitar for quite some time! There has to be some sort of trick. I've run out of room on the fine tuners and before I take the nut clamps off I want to make sure I don't screw it up so bad that I have to take it to a tech. I've done that before. I think someone mentioned at some point to tune a one or two strings sharp then tune the others to accomodate for the change in pitch of the other strings. I can't remember which though or how.

Set the fine tuners to the middle of their range and then unclamp. You can use a compensation method but I just tune the low E and then the rest. Patience is key, you just have to keep tuning until it balances. It's a snap once you do it a few times. Pretty soon you'll be able to make spring adjustments for different tunings or bar feel and retune or change strings in a snap. All that great tuning stability is worth your time.

If there's any trick it's go fast at first, don't worry about getting every string perfectly in tune, just move on to the next until you get close. After a while you'll get fast and gain a feel for when it's balanced. Then tune again, clamp it and fine tune. Don't hesitate to ask or PM if you run into any trouble.

I start with the fine tuners all the way out until they just meet the string clamp rods. Then I block the bridge between the backside edge of the trem and the body so that the bridge is parallel to the body. This makes tuning to pitch a lot faster because you dont have to keep cranking and checking as the pitch of each string changes and the bridge is pulled into place.

The block will slide out easily once the guitar is in tune. Check all the strings to make sure they are close and maybe just a percent or two flat and clamp them down and then recheck the intonation. If clamping the strings causes and string to be sharp then unclamp and readjust until the strings are just a percent or so flat when clamped.

Then use the fine tuners to hit pitch. Blocking the bridge from the top and then tuning to pitch is also a faster way to set your bridge springs. Block the trem parallel to the body and tune to pitch. release the spring tension if the block falls out and add tension if the block stays tight. Once you get the guitar close using a block, tuning and fine adjustments to the spring claw tension is far easier.

There's a tutorial on my sig, you can check it out.

Zerb´s Step by step walkthrough for beginners of what you´ve gotta do to setup and tune a Floyd properly when there´s already a ballpark or better setup

Ballpark = for ex. Brand change but not guage, tuning from standard e -gt; Dropped d, action and intonation already spot on... Note that this is NOT intended for general setup use, but as a quot;tweak guidequot; for situation where the tuning /setup is just slightly off, such as a string that wasnt fully stretched before, replacing only one or 2 strings, or a slight tuning change.... if the setup is totally off you´ll want to do it quite a bit differently to save time... for the purpose of this I´ll assume the strings are already stretched and installed and the Floyd is in good condition...

1. Set the fine tuners to the middle of their travel and unclamp the nut (order doesn´t matter)

2. Tune the entire guitar down if you´re not going to be tuning up from where you are, quot;Always tune Upquot; also applies to Floyds.

3. tune the guitar string by string.. I personally start with the a, then move up towards the high e, and then do the low e last.... others start high then go low, others low then high.... the order isn´t important, what IS is that when you do it you take your time and do it precisely.. you will have to repeat it multiple times to get where you want to go, do not lose patience, take a short break if it overloads you the first time... especially the first few times it WILL take a while... Tune check, then repeat until all strings are in tune.

4. When all strings are perfectly in tune, check the angle of the baseplate... is it parallel to the NECK, not the body, as some assume (often correct, but let me explain)... very many guitars (for ex. pre 1990 Jacksons, most Gibsons, IIRC some Carvins, virtually any guitar that originally had a Tune-O-Matic...... ) have angled necks... and in almost all cases the Floyd is set by the factory to match the neck radius when parallel to it...

5. If not, tweak the trem claw accordingly, back the screws out to raise the fine tuner end, .. Repeat steps 3, 4 and 5 until the claw is parallel and all strings are in tune.

6. If the Trem claw was tweaked, recheck intonation on all strings.... Dito if the strings or tuning are different......if not and you´re merely restringing (same brand, guage, type tuning), it´s optional but a good habit to get in to. Reset intonation accordingly if it has changed. Afterwards repeat 3,4 and 5 if necessary

7. Recheck EVERYTHING, in this order: Tuning, Action (incl. bridge angle) and intonation... if everything is perfect and you didn´t tweak a thing, you can move on...

8. Clamp down the nut... there are different philosophies here, some clamp all then fine tune all.. others clamp high then low, that´s preference....

I personally feel that it´s best to clamp the d g, then the b high E strings, then the A low E strings... I lock the clamp, fine tune that pair, check ALL strings and tweak if necessary, then move on.. important is that you´re really anal about tuning here....

9. when all the locks are set and the pairs are tuned, depress the bar and let it quot;whip backquot; .... now check tuning of all strings, tweak if necessary... depress bar again and let it whip back.... You should be set to go

If not, fine tune and whammy until you are.

The most important thing in setting up a Floyd is patience... but that I can´t teach you

I may revise this later as I start to wake up, but for the most part I should have been mentally present enough

Zerb, thanks for a break down on this bit of seemingly esoteric black magic

You the man zerb. Thanks everyone.

Sometimes I run into trouble when changing strings or adjusting tuning on a floyd. Other times it goes really smoothly and I can get it in tune no problem. Weird.

Zerb's info is spot on. Thanks man.

My experience has been that Floyds are VERY suseptible to weather changes which can make fine adjustments easy or a pain in the ass...

Good point... If you have a climate that´s quot;extremerquot;, as in goes from up to -25°C in the winter to 40°C in the summer, the difference in heat constants between the wood and the trem springs will likely make it necessary to do a basic tweak at least 2x a year if not 4

Something else that helps with tuning up a floating Floyd that I didn't see Zerb mention is this quot;Lquot; shaped device called a quot;Trem Blockquot; I think. I can't quite remember the name. Anyway, it sits across the recessed cavity and the trem sits on it. This allows you to string up and tune up your floating trem guitar with the trem set parallel to the body like it should be. Once you're done, just remove it and you're ready to go. I don't know if it is even made anymore but if you can find one, it's great to have.

I haven't used one in years since the Floyd on my Kramer sits on the body. I have one somewhere though. It's probably at the bottom of one of the parts boxes in my closet.